Playing Hookie With the Girls

Viva Italia!

Amy and Italy arrived last night. Since then we've enjoyed the wine, coffee and hazelnut products of Italia. All excellent! Along with the espresso pot and cups Amy also brought a lanyard for my collection. Not just any lanyard its from the GIRO! (and is the pink ribbon like thing in the foreground).

In honor of the occassion I finally cleaned up the little Panasonic DX and took a wonderful spin around town.

Everyone ready for The Tour?

Anniversary

This coming Tuesday, the 29th, marks the first year anniversary of the trip to Europe....and the beginning of the amazing year that followed. Over the last year I've experienced so many new places and met some really great people. I loved biking in Europe, hiking and exploring in the Grand Canyon, Sedona and Utah. Different ends of the cultural and natural spectrum but all opening up both exterior and interior worlds. I've learned so much history, geography and geology the world feels like it is ever expanding, ever richer and complex yet with a beautiful unity. I know, that all sounds so nebulous but seriously...the more I see, experience and know of the world, the more comfortable I feel here in my skin.

...and speaking of which...next stop? I'd like to hike the AT through NH this summer (perhaps taking the luxury way and doing hut-to-hut), and in October take a swing through Denver, Moab and New Mexico.

Anyone what to come?

Salmon River

Everything at home is pretty much back in order so I decided to check out the Salmon River hike. It's about a 7.9 mile hike in Colchester, CT off RT 16. It starts at the covered bridge, and heads north west along the river. After a mile it turns in to the wood and winds through some older forests, along and over various streams, Day Pond, and along a ridge line. There are some great views and this time of year, there was also a lot of wild columbine.

Would I do it again? Hmmm. Aside from the first mile along the river it was a pretty typical CT hike, but I would go back and spend more time on the river.

More on Hillary

Found this news story and video on The Visit. I was there! I saw this wave.

http://cbs2chicago.com/topstories/local_story_135000134.html

Kelly (I have no idea why this interests me) Drake

The Group W Bench

So I'm sitting here at Chicago's Midway Airport waiting for my plane. Originally scheduled to leave at 4:40, revised to 6:10, and now showing as 5:15. For those of you who are intimate with Midway I'm sitting in a rocking chair in terminal A between Manny's and The House of Blues, right behind the life-size statues of Jake and Elwood. (Only rocker I could find near a power source). In between dodging people having pictures taken of them with the Blues Brothers and deciding if "the moving walk way is ending" voice will drive me crazy, I'm typing away, and starting to get back into the work mode. You know, work would be so much more productive if it wasn't so fragmented...hmmmm.

Goollyy

These cell phone thingees are handy. Did you know that if you have one you can know who is calling – even before you answer the call?

Even more cool – say you remember, or you decide you need to, call someone. You don’t have to wait until later – when you then have a million other calls to make to make the call, you can make it when you think of it – and avoid lists!

If you want to read my comments on AAM (and I have some very enlightening observations you won’t want to miss) check out my other blog – http://maritimecompass.blogspot.com/

Tomorrow I’ll be attending a morning session on podcasts, having coffee with some museum geeks and then head home. It will be nice to be home. I will also be a different person from when I left.

Here is what I need

To be outside
To be focused not scattered
To be centered and aware – to Meditate
To be Creating/Building something that speaks to the higher levels of cultural or self-actualization.
To love every bleeping thing

Chicago

According to the wife of the Mayor, Chicago is not named the Windy City because of the wind, but because the people here brag about it (blow hot air) all the time. Strangely there were 40 knot winds all day.

And speaking of hot air...I left the hotel this evening and noticed 4 tv camera men hanging around...so I asked one why. Seems Hillary Clinton is spending the night at this hotel and they were waiting to film her arrival. Hey, I had nothing else to do so tried to look as casually as i could leaning against a building in downtown Chicago. Can't say I was successful because pretty soon another conference attendee asked what i was doing. By the time Hillary arrived we had gathered into a small mob. While seeing Hillary in person wasn't all that thrilling it was very interesting to see the build up to her arrival. First the camera guys, then the news personnel for each station, then the hotel security, then two real live secret service guys, then the Chicago Police (on Segways) then finally Hillary in a huge black suv-type limo thing. Joanne got a picture and when I get it, I'll post it.

The Conference is okay. Mostly learning from talking to people although the keynote by Salmon Rushdie was very good...who'd a thought a guy with a fatwa out on him can be really funny...he's also incredible smart.

Sunrise in Sedona

Its Always Sedona

Well, here I am in Chicago. Watched the sunrise from the El, had a Diablo Burger (rare) and a blueberry mojito and now I'm going to relax.

It's funny, I never felt the least bit tired in Sedona but on the shuttle, in the airport, and on the plane I fell asleep. Adding up the hours, I guess I didn't sleep much while there, always felt so alive and awake. There is an energy there.

If all your friends jumped off a bridge.....?

94 degrees in the shade and we set out for another wonderful hike today. So long as you have water and sunscreen all is fine. There were lots of other hikers, both old, young, single and in large groups. Also lots of mountain bikers. (I am definitely getting a mountain bike when I move here.)

Oh, last night we were sitting out on the deck, sipping margaritas and watching the sunset when a wild boar strolled by. Very casual. Ron and he had a conversation and then he strolled off into the west. Cute as he was, I thought of Amy’s encounter in France and decided I would not like to get too friendly.

But back to today. After the hike we went to Slide Rock State Park. It’s about 2 miles up Oak Creek Canyon, used to be an apple orchard, but now is a very popular swimming area. This being Saturday there were many other people there. All very nice and appreciating the cool 56 degree water running through the narrow channel. In places the water rests in deep pools, in other it has worn narrow chutes into the Red Rock which makes for perfect Sliding. There is also a place under the bridge where the water rests in a very deep pool between some very high rocks. It’s a perfect spot for rock jumping, and many people were doing just that. We watched for awhile and then it happened again…just like before on the Covered Bridge over the West River in Vermont. I had to jump. And let me tell you those split seconds suspended in mid-air followed by gravity propelled immersion….Awesome. So remember folks, the next time your friends jump off a bridge…check the depth of the pool, decide if it’s something you yourself want to do…and if it is, go for it.

Everyone that is, except Amy and Alyssa.

Blue Red And Grey - The Who

Some people seem so obsessed with the morning
Get up early just to watch the sun rise
Some people like it more when there's fire in the sky
Worship the sun when it's high
Some people go for those sultry evenings
Sipping cocktails in the blue, red and grey
But I like every minute of the day

I like every second, so long as you are on my mind
Every moment has its special charm
It's all right when you're around, rain or shine
I know a crowd who only live after midnight
Their faces always seem so pale
And then there's friends of mine who must have sunlight
They say a suntan never fails
I know a man who works the night shift
He's lucky to get a job and some pay
And I like every minute of the day

I dig every second
I can laugh in the snow and rain
I get a buzz from being cold and wet
The pleasure seems to balance out the pain

And so you see that I'm completely crazy
I even shun the south of France
The people on the hill, they say I'm lazy
But when they sleep, I sing and dance
Some people have to have the sultry evenings
Cocktails in the blue, red and grey
But I like every minute of the day

I like every minute of the day

Courthouse Butte – a circumnavigation – counterclockwise

Sometimes you do get to go back and do it over, even undo it if necessary.Last December on my last morning in Sedona I started the hike around Courthouse Butte.It was early, but not early enough as I only was able to go ¼ of the way before having to turn back to catch the plane.

This morning I put on my new Chaco sandals, returned and finished the hike.
Courthouse Butte is located in Oak Creek, a village 10 miles south of Sedona. The red rocks here are the leading edge of the Mongolian ridge so while the
Butte and its close buddy, Bell Rock, are identifiably red rock formations in front of several others the land slopes gently south from their bases.
In general the walk is level, the trail wide and soft from the sandstone. There are flowers blooming everywhere.We saw the first of what will soon be thousands of prickly pare cactus flowers, as well as a blooming agauve. Some parts of the trail follow a dry steam wash, while others wind through the flatlands.

There were several people riding mountain bikes on one section – if I lived here I’d certainly have to get one of those. But as it is, I think I’ve got everything I need

Beyond the Post

You know those perfect moments? Those rare and special moments when you feel the world is in balance. There are no worries, no cares, and you know deep down, beyond knowing that everything is and you are.

That all is as it should be.

And you just let go.

Monday

After a long night discussing UFO’s, reptilians, Chemtrails, and other reputed Sedona-phenomenon I woke up at 4:40, ready for the next adventure. By 6:00 we were on the road, headed North. Sunrise in Oak Creek Canyon, the switchback out to Flagstaff. Then west, ever west to Williams. At Williams we turned North toward the Grand Canyon, stopping only briefly to make a quick detour to get in a helicopter. Okay, short of sky diving, and bungie jumping I think I’ve now done most of the things I said I’d never do. (And don’t anyone get ideas because that just isn’t happening).

The helicopter was really actually very nice. Very gentle, and the front seat was an amazing viewpoint from which to see the Canyon. I didn’t think I’d be seeing it again so soon….and I want to hike it now more than ever (if you’re interested, I’m thinking October). And you could see the Colorado River too! Amazing. And the North Rim! The Aspen and Ponderosa Pine. beautiful! You know, that Powell guy really had guts.

From there we drove to Flagstaff via the West slop of the San Francisco Mountains. Took a short detour up to the Snow Bowl – made my first snowman of the year! Saw a coyote, enjoyed an awesome burger a brew at the Flagstaff Brewery, and contemplated the pros and cons of jumping a train, and redeveloping the ‘wrong side of the tracks’. Like I said, its been one the most relaxing vacations I’ve ever had.

After posting this however, I’m going for a hike...maybe.

Enjoying Sedona

It’s 3:30 on Monday afternoon. I’m sitting outside by the Hot Tub looking West. Taking a break. It’s been an amazing two days.

Sunday started with the sunrise which was followed by meeting the local Gambel Quail family. Mom, Dad and about 11 little chicks who regularly walk up and down the road. After Heuvous Rancheros at the Coffee Pot Restaurant (something I’ve been dreaming about since last December) I spent some time just hanging out at Ron’s place. Have I mentioned how cool this place is? It’s so cool, its hard to leave, but around 3:00 we went for a hike to Devil’s Bridge.

What is this fascination with naming unusual things after the Devil? And really the Bridge isn’t all the unusual, just another amazingly beautiful spot inside an amazingly beautiful Red Rock Canyon. The hike was nice. The wild flowers are just blooming here, although there is a dispute as to whether the prickly pear have already, or will soon bloom. Honestly it’s hard for this New Englander to tell the difference between a cactus flower bud and a cactus leaf(?) bud. But the agaves! And the spikes – oh I wish I was here for when they flowered. Gardening here would be extremely difficult. It all looks so perfect just how it is – what would you add?

But, back to the bridge. After hiking a while we turned a corner and saw it above us, a little while longer and we had scrambled to the top. Ron just walked out across it while I hemmed and hawed, weighed my options, equivocated, gesticulated…and slowly, looking neither left nor right walked across it too.

Pretty much the same way it went the next day in the helicopter.

Good morning campers!

While the duties of a blogger demand that I tell the details of yesterdays flight I will begin by saying that I am sitting in –Nirvana? To be more exact, it is 5:31 am. I am looking due West (the same due West over which there was a deep magenta sunset last night). The red rocks of Boynton Canyon are just beginning to take on color although the suns rays have not yet begun their slide. The house could be described as a Sante Fe style artists loft with a bedroom and a long deck. All facing West. Go West? Well I’m here.

But back to the flight. Not bad except for the turbulence when we were flying over the storms in Nebraska, and the half hour before landing in Phoenix. Neither Providence nor Midway have free wireless access – something I’m proposing should be written into the Constitution. On the other hand, perhaps its good to not be able to tap into the world at all times. On the other hand they have those obnoxious tv monitors blaring. But I digress…

The Book Selection turned out remarkably well. While reading the Chick Lit Selection I had to burst out laughing (dour man sitting next to me was not amused) but you may be. In the book the heroine is reunited with her mother who had spent many years in the desert of Sedona trying to find her self. Once the mother gets back the whole family goes to family reunion at the family farmhouse in Salem, CT. For an outing they go to…”Old Mystic Seaport, a sort of Disneyland-on-the-Sea that recaptured the magic of the whaling industry.” How cute is that? And do I add that to my list of books that cite our sources?

But here comes the sun and I must be off…..

Patience Prudence

So I'm sitting here at work...3 hours and 2 minutes left.

3 L o n g h o u r s.

The Moment You've Been Waiting For

The Book Selection!!

Chick Lit:

• Girl's Guide To Witchcraft (Red Dress Ink)

Good fiction:

• Flight: A Novel
• Life of Pi

Thought-provoking non-fiction:

• Crossing the Unknown Sea
• Your Life As Art

Happy May Day!

Gee I almost forgot. Today is the first real day of summer.

May 1 is a traditional summer holiday in many pagan cultures, and many elements of the holiday are celebrated. May 1 is the first day of summer, the summer solstice, June 22nd, is midsummer.

As my friends, who celebrate Beltane today, would say...Blessed be!

The Lemming Conspiracy

About 7 years ago I read The Lemming Conspiracy: How to Redirect Your Life from Stress to Balance (Includes Bibliographical References) about how every 7 years or so the average person goes through a stress induced re-evaluation of their lives. Usually the 'way out' is only temporary, often addressing only the symptoms, and not the deeper life needs that remain unfulfilled.

The author's explanation of how this cycle comes about, and how society and our programmed selves keep it going is well explained and worth reading, the solution...well, as I said, I read it 7 years ago.

I'm going back...

to Sedona!!!!!!

May 6th - Sunrise at Airport Mesa...be there.

Zen Pagan Day

I woke up this morning feeling a bit mello. This being my last day I wanted to savor it and decided that the best way to do that was to take the 40 miles back to Zion at a leisurely pace, stopping for breakfast, take in the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park, and then leisurely hike up along the Virgin River just until I found a quiet spot to relax and maybe read. I wasn't sure there was an easily accessible quiet spot on the Virgin River given the noticeable daily rise in tourism, but it would have to do.

Breakfast at "Grandmother Tina's" was excellent and I warmed up to Kanab while eavesdropping, and being included in on, on the conversation at Steve's table. These were obviously a group of locals who met there every morning. They were friendly, kind, retired but active people who enjoyed everything the area had to offer. Yesterday Steve hiked down into Snake Canyon.

After breakfast I headed Northwest stopping for a stroll along the dunes at the State Park. Even the sand here deserves mention. It's so fine its more like liquid than like our heavy, ponderous-by-comparison-granite sand. And the further you dig down with your toes the cooler it gets. What really struck me was how wonderful a place this would be to do some yoga, especially at sunset. Any takers?

Then it was off to Zion. The drive was bittersweet, so beautiful but also the last time I'd see all this beauty for awhile. After passing through the Zion tunnel, driving down two of the hair pin turns and crossing a small bridge I pulled off the side of the road to take a picture. Noticing how nice the little brook looked that went under the bridge I grabbed my backpack, locked Brutus and headed down for a closer look. One thing I've learned about this area, from reading the "Paria River" book, short experience, and listening to Steve this morning was that every river or stream leads up a canyon and every and any canyon can be wonderful. So I headed up the stream bed. Rounded a few corners, a few boulders, climbed up a few sliprock walls, and .... came to what was the exact spot I'd wanted to be. There at the head of the little canyon was a waterfall cascading into a clear pool...(that's it in the picture). I waded in the pool, enjoyed the quiet, watched the butterflies (big yellow ones), thanked the forces that had led me here, then took out my book and read.

Sandstone, Sliprock and Slot Canyons

Today's adventure started out at the Miracle Outfitters/Bookstore/Coffee shop with a smooth French Roast, a book entitled "Hiking and Exploring the Paria River," and a chat with the clerk. A young woman originally from Wyoming, Jane moved to Kanab for 2 reasons - she likes the warm weather, and there is so much to do in the area. It was she who recommended the book. She also filled me in on Latex Larry. Yesterday I neglected to describe the town of Kanab, where I'm staying. If I had to describe said town in one sentence I'd say, "Kanab is the kind of small town located on a busy highway that has to park a police car with dummy at the beginning of town just to get travelers to slow down." And that Police Cruiser is parked right outside my hotel door, and it's occupant - according to Jane is named Latex Larry.

It was the book however that pointed me in the direction of Buckskin Gulch. After driving 40 miles to the BLM office I obtained the official map with directions and proceeded to the Wirepass Trailhead. The next 4 hours were spent exploring part of the longest slot canyon in Utah "and all the world". To reach the canyon I hiked along a wash through sliprock country, areas were the sandstone had been twisted and turned into amazing shapes and textures revealing banding patterns that are beautiful. Then while temperatures rose into the upper 70's I slipped into the slot canyons. Sometimes the canyon must have been over 100ft deep, 3 ft wide and 20 degrees cooler than outside.

After that I headed back to Kanab, which also happens to have one of the best Mexican Restaurants I've ever had the pleasure to dine at. Then it was back to the Bob Bon Inn for some R & R, and a chance to finish reading "Hiking and Exploring the Paria River," which is also full of local history.

Swiftly flow the days

Like most days so far a lot has happened between sunrise and sunset.

Sunrise was observed at Bryce Canyon amoungst an international group of fellow sun worshippers. When I reached the point at 7:14 there was already a couple there from Italy. We were soon joined by a Japanese couple a group of Germans and I believe two Frenchmen. How amazing is it to know that people come from all the world to see this country. We were all equally impressed with what we saw. I've uploaded a series of photos to the album.

After sunrise I headed East toward Escalante and the Grand Staircase National Monument. The next time someone challenges you to name something good Bill Clinton did you may now, irregardless of your political affiliation, grandly state that he set aside this vast, varied and unique tract of land in Southern Utah for the enjoyment of future generations. The 60 mile drive to today's hiking destination climbed to an elevation of 8000ft and traversed Ponderosa Pine forest, desolate desert, amazing sliprock and red canyon country.

After turning several bends along rt 12 and exclaiming, "Oh my god" after each one I reached the trailhead for Lower Calf Creek Falls. As the guidebooks says "this trail follows the year round creek through a spectacular canyon to a 126ft waterfall." During the 6 mile hike I also saw picturographs, and trout and got a small taste of a summer day in the desert. I think they must be extremely HOT. Most of the trail was sand and I walked most of it in barefeet. In the morning the sand felt cool by afternoon I about burnt my feet to match the rest of my quickly sunburning body. And the Falls, as you can see for yourself, were just - well- just like a miracle.

After the hike I retraced the route West past Bryce and South past Mt Carmel arriving in tonight's town, Kanab, at 5pm. The exact time everything closed down. This being a very religious area, most of the establishments are also closed tomorrow. After some cruising up and down the strip however I did locate an Outfitter/Bookstore/Coffee shop (Another Miracle!) which is open tomorrow. Now that I had the important details taken care of I checked into the BobBon Inn, sat down on my second story balcony and watched the sunset over the red canyon walls to the West.

PS "Desert Solitaire" is a classic.

Reading the Rocks

At 1:30 I sat down in the shade of a magnificent Ponderosa Pine. Having just completed the 6 mile Queen's Garden/Peekaboo Canyon Loop of Bryce Canyon. I needed a little break. It was at just this moment that a hiker came up behind me asking for the time. When I told him he told me that at 2:00 a Park Ranger/Geologist was giving a talk at Sunset Point on the Geology of the Canyon. He'd "love to chat, but..." had to get to the talk...which was .6 miles and 1000ft above where we were. Out loud I wished him luck, under my breath I cursed his very existence.

The geology of Bryce Canyon and for that matter all of Arizona and Utah fascinates me. It is certainly unlike anything Dr. Hiscock covered in Geology 101 and although I'd read a few websites here and there the pieces just didn't make sense. Now here I was tired and hot but only .6 miles, 30 minutes and 1000ft from a real live person who was going to explain it all.

Have I mentioned I was tired? I'd woken up before sunrise in Springdale, eaten another of the Mean Bean's excellent Breakfast Burritos and driven East on RT 9 (stopping to take the obligatory photo of Checkerboard Mesa) and 89 arriving at the Canyon rim (elev. 8300) at 10:00. It's just like in the pictures, only now it was real. The colors of the hoodoos are so bright, their shapes so fantastic and without a seconds hesitation I started down, then up, then around. The hike was about 6 miles through fantastic landscapes of deserts, snowy valleys, ponderosa pine forests, hoodoos, spires, window walls, etc. All of which I took numerous pictures and now...I would have to climb up out of the Canyon at warp speed.

Did I mention that it was hot? But I did it! The Ranger's talk lasted about 45 minutes during which I finished off the water in my camelback and learned that the area all round here was at one point a giant inland lake surrounded by mountains of different chemical compositions and what unique combination of minerals allows the hoodoos to exist, or rather not erode. If you're lucky - some day I'll tell you too. I also learned why Zion is Zion, what's up, or down with the Grand Canyon and ... I'll tell you later. Needless to say the uphill sprint was worth it.

Now I'm bunking down at Ruby's Inn. (They've got a Western Theme thing going on) Turning in early. Didn't sleep all too well last night - kept having dreams of falling off cliffs and then when I did fall asleep dreamed that I jumped off them and was flying over the Canyon. Tomorrow I'm not sure what I'm doing except I know by nighttime I'll be in Kanab, Utah, about 70 miles South of here.

Observation Point

Distance: 8 miles round trip
Duration: 5 hours
Challenge: Difficult
Elevation Change: 2150 ft.
Temperature variation: 45 - 80 degrees

After uploading everything last night I got into a conversation with a German hiker who was also using the internet. He was hiking the Narrows today - so I told him all about that. He'd hiked to Observation Point, and told me all about that. I mentioned that I was thinking of attempting Angel's Landing. He showed me a picture he'd taken - of Angel's Landing looking down from Observation Point...and the rest is history.

This morning at 9:00 after an excellent breakfast burrito I pulled into the Weeping Rock parking lot and started climbing. To whomever built all those switchbacks I promise my eternal gratitude. The views were beautiful. wonderful. The climbing enjoyable.

Once again the first people I met were European. The Americans would come later. Guess the Europeans just get up earlier?

Half way up the visable mountain (you know how mountains have that habit of being much higher than the peak you can see), the trail turned a corner and entered a slot canyon. Cool.For awhile it went along a stream bed, then through a narrow section of shear Red Rock walls. Up close those walls are even more beautiful. The veining is so intricate, the colors vivid. Out of the canyon, the temperature started rising as the sun started sliding down the walls. Spring is obviously something that comes here in pockets. Every once in a while I'd see a plant flower that in other areas were still dormant. I love wildflowers and these were as sweet as any I've ever seen.

After hiking 2 miles I stopped for a rest under a Ponderosa Pine that sat off the trail. (Gerald - you're right those Honey Stinger Bars are excellent - could use a tad more chocolate - but really very good) Then started hiking another series of switchbacks. I too am thankful to the people who made these possible...but couldn't they have made them 5, maybe 6 feet wide? Maybe added an edge in some places where it went along shear 1000 ft drop? Okay. It was in this section that I had a panic attack. The fear of heights is a hard one to get over. I actually turned around. Walked down about 20 steps. Hugged the wall. Waited for my breathing to return to normal. Turned back around and never once taking my eyes from the path in front of me walked the remaining switchback section to the Ponderosa Pine Forest of the High Desert which leads to Observation Point.

The Point itself? The picture says it all.

Tomorrow I head for Bryce Canyon.

Reading the River

Well those of you who bet on my going up the River have won. What it really came down to was me knowing that as long as I didn't go it would be the main thing on my mind. So after updating the blog this morning I went to Zion Canyon Outfitters, put on a 2 pairs of neoprene booties, one pair of canyoneering boots, and some really large dry suit pants.

I then drove (in those) to the end of the Zion Scenic Drive, hiked the 1 mile paved walkway, entered the River and started off on what is unarguable one of the best hikes I've ever done. Hiking between towering canyon walls is awesome. Hiking IN a river is a new skill all together. As the water rushes down you have to figure out where the water is running deepest and fastest. Often I thought of Mark Twain and his riverboat piloting days. The water was always deepest on the outer bends of the Mississippi, and so I walked the inner curves of the Virgin River. The hiking stick, or sounding pole as I soon came to know it was invaluable. Mark five, Mark three, Mark Twain. Actually it was more like knee depth, hip depth, ankle depth.

Wall Street, the area where the canyon narrows to about 20 ft wide with no shoulders was a powerful experience. Between the force of the water and the height of the straight narrow walls it was almost overwhelming. By the time I reached the end of that section I'd been hiking about 2.5 hours and honestly, my knees were starting to shake.

Walking down stream was a whole new experience and at first I didn't like it at all. After awhile however I got the hang of it and enjoyed that too. So much I took a detour into a side canyon which had a gentle flow and some small waterfalls. It wasn't until after that and I got back to the Virgin River that I began to see other hikers. The first 9, in groups of 3, 2, 2, and 2, were all European. That was a bit disappointing. But soon the Americans started showing up. I guess most tend to sleep later? By the time I got within a mile of the paved walk the river was full of young adult types trying the River in Tevas. Their legs were the red of a well done lobster and I was glad to have the dry suit.

Tomorrow I'll attempt Angels Landing which when you think about it, is basically walking on air.

Good morning

Here I am sitting and typing away on the patio of the "Pioneer Lodge" internet cafe - and a better place to type I can not imagine.Neil Young is singing "Harvest Moon." People are walking by saying hi. I took some shots the sunrise while uploading my last post.


One thing I forgot to mention yesterday were the soft breezes. You can feel them coming down the mountains or rising up off the river. Not like the wind back home, just small locale breezes. They're starting here now.

Take Me To the River 3/13/2007

I thought I was going to Utah but it turns out I'm going to the headwaters of the Virgin River.

But first back to the plane. The ride was loooong but uneventful.("The Family Fortune" is an excellent book) After leaving Phoenix I did see Sedona and San Francisco Mountain off to the East. Then we flew over the Grand Canyon making this trip the perfect follow up to December's.

Las Vegas...hmmm...The song "Leaving Las Vegas" came to mind a number of times as I pulled out of the rental car lot and headed North as fast as I possibly could. Not much to see in Nevada. Guess the highlight would be scorching hot weather and the yellow flowers which I believed to be Santolina blooming by the side of the road. Then the road turned into Arizona and a wall loomed up before the highway and before I knew it a gap opened in the wall out of which the Virgin River Flowed. From all I'd read of Zion the highlight was hiking up the "Narrows" of Virgin River, but here was that same river. I-15 climbed into the high desert alongside the canyon and leveled out around 3000 ft. The road was pretty uneventful after that unil St. George, Utah when the Red Rock reappeared. Turning East on 9 the hills closed in, while at the same time the views up the valley began to be more breathtaking.

It took 4 hours, 1.5 longer than I'd thought, but soon I arrived at Springdale, UT. El Rio Lodge was "right there where the map said it would be" and the people just as friendly as the Lonely Planet Guide book reported. It was 4:00. Sunset wasnt' for another 4 hours. I threw my bags in the room and headed off to the Park.

First off let me say that Springdale is the cutest, but still realest town that is entirely supported by tourism that I have ever seen. Secondly, I say that the tourists that are here - and you can tell its no where near peak - are all outdoor hiker types.

So...I drove up the center park road, stopping at the Zion Lodge parking lot so I could hike the Emerald Pools Loop. I loved it!!! Pictures are here and also available on my Picassa web album. I'll try and add captions to the photos so they make sense. They are all so beautiful and the pools were just lovely. I, of course, had to wade in them.

And it was while I was wading in them that it occured to me...even though its not supposed to be possible this time of year...perhaps with the weather being as unseasonable warm as it is (tomorrow is supposed to be in the 80's) I could actually hike "The Narrows" - a 10 mile hike up the stream bed of the Virgin River. Back in Springdale I checked with an outfitter and they said that people are indeed hiking the Narrows. They rent water shoes and dry suits (the water temperature is 40 - and 3 hours is too long to spend wet in 40 degree water). I'm going to sleep on it. The down side is I can't take the camera, and it will take all day. The upside is I Get To Walk The Narrows!

Lessons Learned

Over the past few years I've learned a few things. A few of them have to do with preparing for trips.

And so it was with those lessons in mind that I went to Borders yesterday. Having good (paperback) books while going on vacation is vital to the success of the trip. You really can not rely upon the airport bookstores to have that right volume. Once I had nothing other than some hideously boring book that I can't even remember for an entire flight to Amsterdam (Other lesson - Do Not count on there being bookstores in Iceland). But back to Borders and the all important book selection. First off, all books can not be of the same genre. One should be light, almost frivolous. For this category I upgraded from the usual 'chick lit' to "The Family Fortune", a modern retelling of Jane Austen's "Persuasion," a slightly sophisticated version of the genre.

Also on the light side, but also on the uplifting, vacation-as-vision-quest vein, I selected "The Tao of Pooh". One of those books I've been meaning to read for years.

On a slightly more serious note and in keeping with my interest in reading fiction or non-fiction relating to the area I'm visiting is "Medicine Woman," by Lynn Andrews and Edward Abbey's "Desert Solitare". Don't think I'll make it Arches National Park, but I'll be close.

And of course there is the travel guide. This time I went with the lonely planet's "Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks."

Final important lessons relating to books - do not take hardcovers for the simple fact they weigh a lot. Don't take library books. If they turn out to be awful, or you need more room in your bag, you can't leave them.

And to think, I'm only 45. What deeper wisdom awaits?

Utah, 2007 Itinerary

March 13 - Go
March 13 - 15 El Rio Lodge

• Zion National Park

March 16 -

• Bryce Canyon National Park

March 17-18 - Bon Bon Inn - Kanab, UT

• Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park
• Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

March 19 -
March 20 - Return