Defining the field

The thing about librarians (although I prefer Information Scientist) is that we have an innate drive to organize, categorization and define things. Travel writing is no exception. And so, without further ado here's my first attempt:

Definition: Travel writing is a broad category of writing concerned with various aspects of travel.

Types of travel writing:

• Travel guides - ala Rick Steeves, Lonely Planet, Fodors
• Travel books - think Paul Theroux.
• Travel literature- books about places or trips, generally from an outsiders perspective. The work must have a coherent narrative, or insights and value, beyond a mere logging of dates and events - Bill Bryson's A Walk in the Woods: Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail exemplifies the type. As he walks the Appalachian Trail Bryson talks not just about the trail highlights, but about it's challenges, the people, the meaning of the AT, and America's and his own relationship with wilderness.

The more I think about it, the more I realize it's travel literature that draws me. Books where the place is an important character within the author's journey from ignorance to knowledge. Place, setting, location - go a long way to forming who we are, for some even more than their social setting. Going somewhere else, i.e. traveling, exposes us to other places, other potentials of who we could be, even as it exposes us to who we are based upon where we've lived. I never realized how American I was until I went to Europe, never knew that the dense forests of New England kept my perspective local, until I hiked in the Southwest deserts, never felt Connecticut's reserve until coming to a four way stop in Iowa and waiting for everyone to signal everyone else through. There are some writers who can convey this - and those are the ones I like to read.

Vicarious Adventures - Travel Writing/Reading

In the words of Neil Young, "Comes a time when you're drifting, comes a time when you settle down." And it appears, I'll be in the settled down phase for the next six months. Hard to believe I won't be flying off to Utah, or Arizona, or Colorado, or any of the other warm, sunny, states this winter, but baring some kinda of miracle conference, that's the case. Oh sure I'll get in some weekend hikes. Hey, maybe it'll even snow and there will be skiing, or winter camping, but no Big Adventures are in the future until late spring when I'll be heading down to western North Carolina, and swinging through Tennessee (got to keep adding to the state list, and even a chance to section hike some of the AT!).

The inevitable question arises. What then to write about? Last year during this time there was the ever popular "Adventures in Retail." While I will be working retail this year, at the same store, with many of the same folks, I suspect there will also be mostly the same stories. Aside from the fact that there may be fewer considering the recession, or rather considering that this year people have to admit there is a recession, there's probably won't be many new stories.

And yet there is something, especially about winter, that makes we want to write. Cozy up with a cup of tea (coffee is out for the time being) and typing away. Right now it's raining out and the wind is starting to pick up. Listening to the cars drive by and typing, just feels nice, really nice. (So nice, it really doesn't matter what I write so feel free to stop reading.)

But back to the question. What to write about? Beer also seemed a good topic. Not in the sense of reviewing it, but in it's history. A few years ago I realized that I liked beer. Much more than red wine, which gave me a headache, or white wine, which didn't give me anything, or harder liqour, which gave me more than I could handle, it was really the clear, crispness, or heavy heardiness (depending upon the season, or mood) of beer that I enjoyed most.

A few weeks ago Bethany was processing a manuscript collection and came upon an 1857 receipt for a shipment of IPA and sparked my newest interest - the history of Beer!

But no - research is a private pursuit, and long one too.

And then it hit me. Write about other travel writing. Every time I go on a trip, I try and read about the area before going, and as faithful readers know, book selection for trips is a key part of every adventures success. But it was on the trip to Portland, Oregon in that bookstore of bookstores, Powell's, that I became truly aware of the Travel Writing Genre, its pros and cons, and realized too that some of the best travel books, really aren't. Check out the travel section at Amazon and you'll know what I mean. Or, read on as I'll be trying to figure that out as well.

.5mile You're on the Cape Cod Rail Trail

A few weeks ago, in celebration of Columbus Day, S introduced me to the CCRT. There's a lot written about it on the web so I won't talk too much about the 22 mile, ex-train line, now bike trail that runs from South Dennis to Wellfleet Mass. I will however talk about the people on the trail.

Even on the cool fall day there we're lots of people, of all types. Not many regular road riders (the kinds you hammering out the miles on the side of your average road) but lots of more recreational types, on all types of bikes. Couples, families with kids on tryks, three-wheelers, and even a spider bike. And then there was the boy scout troop. What we thought at first was a pack of 8 dedicated, hard-riding, teeth-gritting male teens was followed by a larger group of 20 silent, somewhat sullen teens. A few minutes later a smaller group of obviously annoyed teens, followed by 3 scout leader types brought up the rear. All in all the group gave off the appearance of either being on a race at which the future on humanity was at stake, or their very existence depended upon surviving this near-death trek rather than that of the Boy Scout troop that they were. On the return trip we passed a very different group of 20 girls, all together with their leaders, all smiling, and SINGING. The Girl Scouts appear to have a much different view of bike riding, the trail and perhaps life? Couldn't help but note that the difference between the Boy and Girl Scout Troops reflects the differences in men and women's approach to life.

Oh and the title - for the first 10 miles or so the words ".5mile" appear at regular intervals. "Funny" I noted to S., "that someone is so intent on having us enjoy the trail that the feel its necessary to write smile on the pavement." S looked at me rather strangely. "You mean .5 miles?" And darn it all thats what it really said. I'd mistaken the .5 for an s. But hey, it was a nice day, so Smile, you're on the Cape Cod Rail Trail.

Mt. Madison, last ascent into the alpine zone, last trail of cairns

James Madison was the fourth president of the United States.. At 5367' Mt. Madison is the fourth highest, and also the northernmost peak in the northern Presidentials. It was also the last peak of the vacation and by the 4th day I recognized the progression to the Presidential ascents.

Leaving the parking lot there is always a bit of relatively flat hiking the length of which varies depending on the trail and the mountain. The longest flat was Eisenhower, the shortest Madison via the Pine Ridge/Howker/Osgood trails. Here the trail immediately begins climbing. Which really isn't so bad on the way up. It's on the way down, when you want a few feet or so to stretch out your legs that you miss the flat.

After ascending for a mile or two, whatever it takes to reach an elevation somewhere around 4000' the trail enters the Alpine Zone. There is always a sign somewhere in the area to warn you that "the area ahead has the worst weather in America many have died there from exposure even in the summer. Turn back now if the weather is bad." (kinda like waving a red flag in front of adventure junkies). Soon after the trail breaks into the open areas of the zone, so it would be hard to miss. The thing about the Alpine Zone that I love is the contrast of the bigness, and harshness of it, with the tiny plants that live there.

Simultaneous with entering the Alpine Zone, or because of it, the trees disappear and trail markings change from blazes to rock cairns. On the trails around Adams and Madison these were particularly interesting. Someone has taken a great deal of care to top them with a large piece of white granite and many of them looked much like stone lighthouses, and they stood out clearly against a sea of gray rock. Pretty, but also potentially lifesaving. In the heavy fog that often sits on these peaks you need all the help you can get to stay on the trail.

Once in the land of cairns the trail switches, basically from a walking trail to a rock hopping exercise. Once again the value of good gear, in this case boots, is a welcome thing. Hopping across rocks, following the cairns to the Big Cairn which marks the summit can be heck on your feet. But as with the others the summit of Madison was worth it. The view was a little hazy but really its not just the view. It's the sense of accomplishment, of being in the clouds, in the sky that just makes it all worthwhile. I especially like looking back down the mountain, picking up the hints of trail we hiked, seeing where we've been, and feeling just great that only a few hours ago I was way over there and that now here, under my own power(and with the help of some awesome hiking poles) I stand.

Mt Adams

Peak fever and Pole adoption continue apace. Today the peak was Mt. Adams (at 5,774 feet the second highest peak in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and the one with the greatest elevation gain by any of the standard routes.) During the whole hike we only saw one other person. A few off in the distance of what are often the most overcrowded peaks in the world, but we met up with only one hiking the same trail we were on. Seemed kinda strange.

Ascending on the Airline Trail, an impressive 4.3 mile, 1000 to 5600 ft trial leading in a straight line from the Appalachia parking lot to the summit via a stairway cut from stone, a mile-long knife edge ‘walk’, and a .9 mile scramble up a rock pile we arrived at the summit just as the clouds lifted off the peak. As we enjoyed the traditional applebutter and peanut butter sandwich the clouds also lifted, east to west off Mt. Madison, Jefferson and Washington. The sun really didn’t shine but it was nice this time to see the view. Reading over other posts of Mt. Adams ascents it appears we were lucky. This peak is often in the clouds for days.

Leaving Adams to the east via the Lowe Trail with a much shorter .3 mile rock scramble we arrived at the AT, aka the Gulfside Trail. Here as with all the other trails on this hike it was maintained by the Randolph Mountain Club. Someone has arranged massive granite boulders into a level walking path. The work done by the RMC all over the mountain is amazing, making for easily walkable, well marked trails in an often hostile environment.

From Gulfside we descended to the AMC Madison Hut. It was closed now but looks like a good base for future area hikes. Speaking of which, while the plan had been to climb the .5 mile to Mt. Madison, it was now 2:00 and really not a good idea.

We descended the mountains via the Valley Way. A bit slippery for the first mile of the descent it was a relatively nice hike. Toward the last mile the trail followed along a beautiful stream with falls and pools that looked especially inviting - come some warm summer day.

During the hike (down - on the way up, between trying to catch my breath, and stop myself from getting vertigo) I developed and perfected the hiking pole draw. The art of pulling the poles from the pack without breaking stride. It’s really very easy. By inserting them individually, one on the left side of the Gregory ISO pack, one on the right, thru the compression straps and into the water bottle pockets – handles up – you can draw them in a second. Also developed two new uses for the poles, fencing sword, and javelin. S. introduced one as well – drying rack.

And on the third day

Today we rested. Well kinda. To be honest, even with the wonderful poles I was a bit sore. The legs just weren't holding up to the sudden jolt from spending 8 hours at a desk to hiking 8 hours on the trail. In my work at ACO I often wonder at the folks who come in and announce they're going to climb some huge mountain the next day, with no preparation whatsoever. And now I know why they do it, and I know how they feel. Exhilarated and perhaps more than a bit sore.

But it was a beautiful day, and while none of us liked shopping, it seemed that a trip to North Conway and Eastern Mountain Sports, than driving North around Mt. Washington would be a good way to recuperate.

Ah, EMS. Way back when, when I was just a little girl. Mad as heck that my parents dragged me up and down mountains (preferring to explore them at my own pace) we used to stop in at EMS. For those of you who missed the original North Conway store, it was located in a huge Colonial Revival building. The biggest structure in town at the time, and the most imposing. I'll always remember how walking in, no matter how often, I'd be expecting some grand, almost museum-like atmosphere. I'd have to stop and take a minute every time just to adjust to all the gear, and the smell. (Gear has a very distinctive smell - not describable - but once you smell it, you know it).

But we only stopped briefly at the old edifice. EMS has moved and I don't want to see what's in the old one now. Probably some foo foo shops of some kind. The kind that smell like new mall stuff. Eww.

The new EMS is down the road to the South. A nice enough building. A big enough space. And no matter where you find it, techwick is always the best. That and shot blocks. I love shot blocks.

After that we headed North on RT 16, then West on Rt 2 and back to the little cabin. Not so sore anymore...and ready to climb another day! Only one question remained. Which mountain(s)?

Mt. Pierce and Jackson and I've got Peak Fever

It’s Day Two of the Presidential New Hampshire vacation. The sun is shining and we’ve selected a slightly less ambitious hike. Still two peaks but instead of 5300, and 5600 fters we’re gearing down to 4100 and 4500 ft. The idea being to take it a little easier today but still bag a few peaks and enjoy some fantastic scenery.

Parking at the Crawford Notch parking lot we started up on the Crawford Path. The sign at the trail head informed us that this was the oldest, most continuously hiked trail in the United States. Initially established as an easier means for Victorian tourists to summit Mt. Washington it was at one point expanded to a horse trail (making it even easier), until replace by the Cog Railroad, which was replaced, or put into competition with the road. (Can it get any easier to get to one of the harshest places on the East Coast? And why do so many people want to go there?)

But back to the Crawford Path. It is a nice 3.3 mile trail up to the summit of Mt. Pierce with a steady incline and no technical sections, but still an incline that was made more enjoyable with the use of hiking poles.

…and the view from the summit of Mt. Pierce is stunning. We arrived around 11:00, just as the higher clouds had lifted off Mt. Eisenhower to the North. The air was so clear we could almost see the cairn on the top clearer than we could yesterday when we were standing right next to it. As we stood and watched the clouds lifted off the top of the next mountain. We debated which mountain was Monroe, which Washington, which was Jefferson. With the final lift however, it became clear. Mount Washington stood tallest and we could figure the rest out from there. And it was then and there that I really decided...well, why not climb them all? See what the world looks like from each and everyone of them. Join the community that knows that, that shares a common language of peaks, of New England weather knowledge, an intimacy with the many trails that leads to each and every one of them. Be here in this part of New England, playing, peak after peak.

The view was so nice, so well deserved, especially after yesterday's fog fest that we decided to have lunch there on the rocks where we could take it all in. Two other hikers were there, a rabbit, a weasel (I believe one had lunch on its mind also) and two Gray Jays that were definitely in feeding mode. We enjoyed our peanut butter and apple butter sandwiches, and they enjoyed our raisins and peanuts. Right out of S’s hand. They’d sit in the firs right next to us and wait until he held out his hand with some goodies, then they’d take turns flying in and snacking. They weren’t in any hurry and would just sit in his hand and fill up taking as much as 5 good sized peanuts in the beaks (pouches?) before flying off. When we decided they’d had enough the continued to eye us but smart enough to not be fooled by and empty hand.

After lunch we headed east on the Webster-Jackson Trail realizing that in our calculations for today’s hike we (or maybe it was just me) hadn’t figured in the fact that’d we’d need to descend, then ascend between the two peaks. But it wasn’t that bad. The AMC's Mitzph hut, a trailside grouse that wasn’t phased by our passing, and a nice mountain bog added to the hike. Once on the summit of Mt. Jackson (named not for President Jackson, but rather for Charles Jackson a 19th century New Hampshire state geologist) we had another nice stop and some more amazing views of the Presidentials. I attempted to shoot a 360 degree panorama. We’ll see how it comes out.

On the summit we crossed paths with what could possibly be the last of the thru hikers. Four young guys on their way to Katadin, in a bit of a hurry).

The trail down, the Webster Jackson connector, was a bit steep, but have I mentioned that I have hiking poles?

Mt. Eisenhower, and Mt. Monroe - I Join the Hiking Pole People

For many years I’ve literally cursed the clickitty clackitty of hiking poles and those people who use them. The number of times I’ve been out enjoying the pristine quiet of the woods, or the desert only to be disturbed by the clicking of hiking poles striking against rock. And for what? I questioned. Really how much can two sticks really add to the hiker’s abilities?

Today I got some learning and some converting. It all began back there on Mount Hancock a few months ago. It was only fitting that the end would be the next 4000fters – Mt. Eisenhower, and Mt. Monroe. We left the trailhead at 8:00, and began the gentle climb up the first 1000 ft. When the climb got a little more serious I decided, “what the heck, I’m carrying the darn poles, why not use them?”

“But wait” you ask, “where did you, curser of hiking poles get hiking poles? And not just any poles – Contour Elliptic Shock Trekking Poles by Black Diamond”

“Ah” I reply. “Good question. Back when I was climbing – or rather descending – Mt. Hancock. S. lent me his – just in time to save my knees. And so it came to pass that for my birthday S. bought me a pair, and not just any pair but Black Diamond Contour Elliptical Shock poles.

But back to Mt. Eisenhower which we climbed expecting the fog to lift after we cleared the tree line. It didn’t. At the peak, marked by a very nice, very large cairn, it still hadn’t. Walking the Crawford Trail north along the ridge to Mt. Monroe was nice, the trail nice. We assumed the view would have been fantastic – but honestly there were times when it was hard to see the next cairn. Still, it was our first 4000 fters since July.

And the question is raised – can you count a peak if you can’t see it, or anything from it?
(We’ll leave that for you – our valued reader and perhaps peak bagger, or another day – to decide)

Presidential Week

One month before what could be the biggest Presidential election in recent United States history I too spent the week talking about Presidents. But while the tv announcers babbled on about some guys named McCain, Obama, and Bush, I was dealing with Washington, Adams, Monroe, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, Pierce and Jackson...and I added a new obsession to my list (1. Hike the AT. 2. Visit all the states) and now number 3. Hike all the New Hampshire 4000 fters.

The remaining question - how many peaks would I "bag" in the coming week?

Bon Ton Roulet: Roundup

...and now for a song. Pedaling along all those miles one song rotated through my mind - almost endlessly. As the miles rolled along, the lyrics evolved and now for your future riding enjoyment I present:

Rollin' Rollin' Rollin

(sung to the tune of Rawhide - (an old tv western)


Rollin' Rollin' Rollin'

Keep movin', movin', movin',
Though they're disapprovin',
Keep them feet a movin' Pedal On!
Don't try to understand it,
Just saddle up, click in and hammer it,
Soon we'll be riding high, decending wide.
Boy my heart's a calculatin'
The miles til my tents a waitin', be waiting at the end of my ride.

Move 'em on, head 'em up,
Head 'em up, move 'em out,
Move 'em on, head 'em out Pedal On!
Set 'em out, ride 'em in
Ride 'em in, let 'em out,
Cut 'em out, ride 'em in Pedal On.

Full Lyrics

Rollin', rollin', rollin'
Rollin', rollin', rollin'
Rollin', rollin', rollin'
Rollin', rollin', rollin'
Pedal On!

Rollin', rollin', rollin'
Though the streams are swollen
Keep them feet a rollin'
Pedal On!
Rain and wind and weather
Hell-bent for lycra and leather
Pushing Cannondales and Specialized.
All the things I'm missin',
Clean pants, dry cloths, beer, and a kissin',
Are waiting at the end of my ride

CHORUS
Move 'em on, head 'em up
Head 'em up, move 'em on
Move 'em on, head 'em up
Pedal On!
Count 'em out, ride 'em in,
Ride 'em in, count 'em out,
Count 'em out, ride 'em in
Pedal On!

Keep movin', movin', movin'
Though they're disapprovin'
Keep them feet a movin'
Pedal On!
Don't try to understand it
Just saddle up, click in and hammer it
Soon we'll be living high and wide.
My hearts a calculatin'
The miles til my dinner's waitin',
It's waitin' at the end of this ride.

Pedal On!
Pedal On!

7/26 - Last Day of the Bon Ton Roulet

It was drizzling when we woke and that continued on and off on our last ride of the tour. The views along Cayuga Lake were still beautiful, and typical of the entire ride. Our final rest stop had all the fixings. From Gatoraide (whether green, orange, yellow or blue no longer mattered) to fig newtons, cheese, crackers, bologna, nuts, sugar wafers, etc. all the goodies we'd come to love were there.

After 50 miles we rode into the parking lot where it all began 7 days ago and greeted Angela, we were tired and dirty but triumphant.

Bon Ton Roulet: 7/25 There is a Bike Shop in Burdett

One of the really excellent features of the Bon Ton Roulet was it's mechanic. At the final night gathering everyone gave him a huge round of applause and he quietly tipped his beer back at us.

Until the tire episode(s) I had only watched the going on at the green van from afar. Seeing the folks gathered round while picking up the bags, going to the head, or checking on the route. The Van was usually parked near the center of things, with a bike stand, or two, set up and a lost riders flocking around. When the time came to ask if he carried kevlar tires I waited while he spun a hapless derailer, clicking it through the gears and trying to determine the problem while a man, seated in a chair asked him how he got into the business. Politely (although distracted by trying to do his job) he replied that he had intended to be a finish carpenter and had set up his shop in Burdett, NY. When business was slow, and it often was, he'd sit on his front porch and work on this bike. Being on the main drag, and there being no other bike shops short of Ithica, people would stop, ask his advise, or ask him to work on their bikes...and so it came to pass...there is now a bike shop in Burdett.

Burdett, NY was the first town where I ever say a dead deer hanging from a front porch. It's a small town and it could well have been on that porch that the mechanic now repaired bikes. Things do change in 2o something years, I do not believe that in the entire year I lived there I never once even saw a bike, let alone a bike shop.

To be honest - I didn't even ride while I lived there. Have you seen the hills? Huge! Mile long climbs, followed by brake burning descents. And apparently - the need for armored tires which coincidentally the mechanic was out of. He did however have these 'tuffy stips' which he could put inside the tire, and those should protect the tube and save us from another 3 flat day.

And so it came to pass that on 7/25 I headed up, up, up and out of Watkins on a 75 mile ride. We took rt 14 south through Montour Falls and up. I'd seen the route before we left, and I knew the 'hill'. I knew I would be walking. I was wrong! As I rode up the monster, admittedly slower than, hmmm, a mountain goat, I couldn't believe it was happening, just pedaling along, climbing the mile and half long beast. Yeah!!!! After that the route turned North along the ridge, than down then up, then down, then up, then down. I was hurting but pedaling. The reststop at Wagner Vineyards was welcome and extremely hard to leave.

Crossing over to Cayuga Lake we stopped for some ice cream. Very good ice cream, then climbed an agonizingly steep road to the top of Trumansburg Falls. Looked at the Falls then crawled into camp where we commenced the nightime routine, rather sentimentally, for this was the last night.

Bon Ton Roulet: 7/24 Layover Deja Vu

Today is the layover day and it's morning in Watkins Glenn. Sleeping in a tent at the High School below the ridge where I first saw a real live pig roast, and walking down streets that look pretty much the same as they did 20 something years ago, its hard not to feel like I'm in some sort of time warp where the 22 year old and the 46 year old meet.

Watkins Glenn is a very nice town. Between the Falls, the Race Track and being at the edge of the biggest Finger Lake, there is a lot going on but somehow it stays relaxed. Still a bit of a farm town. Back when I lived here and now that I'm visiting, it always strikes me that it is at once 'backwards' and also way ahead of the curve. For instance, I was in desperate need (again) of good coffee and we went into a coffee shop. The little shop was on the main street and also, very modernly, doubled as a book shop. Once again, we were not the only people on the tour in need of coffee and waited patiently inline with other bike rides to place our order. The attendants carefully and in a rather relaxed manner filled the orders. The person behind me grunted, and I got a bit anxious. Not like I had anywhere to go or that the atmosphere in the shop wasn't nice, I just felt like we should all be in a hurry somehow. At the very least you'd think that the shop owner, knowing there was a huge influx of people in town (and we were hard to miss) would put a few more people on. But then I remembered, this was Watkins. It didn't work that way here. Money was not the bottom line. I never really figured out what was but people would repeatedly close shops on Sundays, or for little league games, or weddings or whatever and opportunities to make the big bucks, or rather that extra buck, would pass away. Kinda an interesting way to live.

After that we walked some more around town, hiked the falls, took the group charted boat tour around the Lake (OH- saw a Bald Eagle) and generally relaxed. There was a century option but considering the only way out of town was up, up, up, and we would have to do that tomorrow - we opted out. Also it was time to deal with the tires!

Bon Ton Roulet: 7/23 Three Flats and Still Rolling

Have I mentioned that I love my new bike? I do. More and more every day. I am, however a bit pissed at my tires. In all fairness, it's not the only bike suffering from these road, but 3 flats in 50 miles is a bit much to bear, even more to repair!

Luckily for this trip my personal mechanic can also patch a tube and we've perfected the 5 minute flat change and repair routine. (Changing the tube while repairing the old one, or...repairing the tube without even taking it off the rim).

Meanwhile I'm looking to either modify the tires, either with entirely new kevlar ones, or with the addition of "Tuffy strips". It appears that the type of stone dust on the roads here has a tendancy to work into the tires, especially when they are wet. And have I mentioned that it's been wet on this ride?

Today we rode/flat fixed our way from Canandagua to Watkins Glen. Lots of farm land, and vineyards.

Full Moon Paddle - Bluff Point

Bon Ton Roulet: 7/22 The Routine and Variations Thereon

It's now Day 3 of the Bon Ton Roulet (Seneca Falls to Canadagua via Geneva with a side trip down Seneca Lake) and the routine is second nature.
1. 5:00-5:30 - wake up
2. Breakfast
3. Gear up - bike clothes, food, etc.
4. Pack personal stuff and remove from tent
5. Pack tent
7. Carry tent and luggage to van (Being sure to note whether we're throwing our stuff into Van 1, or Van 2.
8. Check bikes
9. Check route
11. Roll out and ride!
12. Ride
13 Rest stop (ie Snacks!)
14 Ride
15 Rest stop (more Snacks!)
16 Arrive at camp site
17 Site perfect tent spot among 300 other tents and various ponds, marshes, outhouses and assorted obstacles.
18 Set up tent
19 Hang up cloths to dry
20 Shower
21 Locate info for night events and next days ride
22 Dinner
23 Check out event
24 Sleep

And there are the Variations on the Theme/Routine

Today's first variation came around mile 12. It was a Real Coffee Shop in Geneva. About 50 of us stopped and luxuriated in a cup of real Coffee. Ahhh. It was excellent! While we were sitting outside enjoying the drinks, a break in the rain, and conversation with a couple from Middletown, CT, a large group of riders heading east rode by. The Bon Ton Roulet was crossing paths with FANY. Several stopped for coffee also (guess poor coffee is a common hardship of these tours)

From there we headed South alongside Lake Seneca, then turned West and up, across the land between the lakes. Lots of fields, corn, fruit, vegies. It's hard to stop once the bikes get rolling but we did stop at one farm stand for some fresh apricots, and once again at a bike shop. We needed lube and a map holder.

When, what had been one of the sunniest days of the trip so far suddenly turned cloudy we picked up the pace. Pedaling the last mile through a solid downpour we arrived at rest stop number 2 where we spent 1 and three-quarter hours waiting out the rain. (And eating Lebanon Bologna!)

And now, with the tent all set and dinner eaten, we're watching a thunderstorm approach. Seems just like old times in Hector where we'd sit on summer nights and watch the clouds sweep in from the West.

Bon Ton Roulet: 7-21 Downhill Day

After a small 300 ft climb this morning on the Bon Ton Roulet the day pretty much went downhill. Literally, we ended 700 ft below where we started. Figuratively there were other downhills as well.

1. The biggest and steepest downhill ever descended (not just for me but for many of the others. It felt like my rear wheel could just lift up and over the handlebars at any second.
2. Millard Fillmore, the 13th president of the United States was born just outside Morovia, NY. Along the route. He was the 1st president not elected to office but once in the whole thing went downhill from there.
3. Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge - where we took refuge from a huge downpour.
4. Tylenol PM - At night I discovered why I haven't been feeling as energetic as usual. (Also why you really should read the label of the medicine you take). Seems I've been taking tylenol PM, instead of regular tylenol.

All in all however, it was a great day. We ended at Seneca Falls. A lovely little town with a bit of history.

Oh - and another funny downpour story! When we arrived at the camping site for the night it was nice and sunny. Our bags and those of 500 others lay in the field waiting for us. As we sorted among them the sky darkened. As I went to put the bikes under the bleachers and S. carried the bags out to our spot on the field - surprise! - it started to pour - torrentially. I looked out from the bleachers to where S. should have been but saw only a blue blob in the field. A moving blue blob. From which a head them popped out. S. had grabbed the floorcloth from the tent bag and covered himself and all our gear! We were saved from a very wet night.

Tomorrow, after about 24 miles of relative flats we climb 500 ft in 5 miles. (Real flats to follow.)

Bon Ton Roulet: And so it came to pass

At 7:45 the rain started.

At 8:00 the Bon Ton Roulet (2008) started. 499 bicyclists hit the road from Auburn, NY to Courtland, NY. And what a group of bikes it was! In addition to hundreds of 'regular' bikes there were several recumbents, lots of tandems, I think I even saw a recumbent tandem! Brandwise there were Lemonds, Fujis, Scotts, Lightspeeds, Treks, Specialized, Cannondales and lots of others - hardly two of the same brand. Some as old as a week (that's me!) and some nice bikes with down tube shifters (could have been me).

The people also came in all shapes, sizes, speeds and characters. From 3 to 82 years old, from sprinters to "what the heck we have all day" types. People from the area, and riders from just about every state in the country.

I soon learned however, that riding with a large group means there are some things we all had to share - skill, teamwork and communication. "Car up", "Car back", "on your left", "You okay?" all day long. Lots of conversation too. Since every bike was required to display a 'license plate' stating our name and hometown there was also lots of talk about towns, especially Mystic. Everyone has been to Mystic.

The folks on the sides of the road were pretty nice also. Curious about us too. "Where are you from?", "How many of you are there?", "Where are you going?", "Where?!"

The highlight of today's ride, apart from the riding and the excellent company, was an unexpected stop at Frog Pond Farm http://www.ferroart.com/. A gallery featuring sculptures made from recycled steel.

After another downpour we arrived at the fields of SUNY Courtland. After riding through two good storms, and setting up the tent in a thunderstorm, stringing a clothes line from the bikes to the fence and hanging up the gloves to dry, it's now time to kick back, and listen to the Travis Rocco Band. Good night!

Bon Ton Roulet: Foreshadowing?

On the last night party of the Bon Ton Roulet they read off the entries for the 6 word stories. Try as I might during the tour and after I cannot fit the "Bon Ton experience" into 6 words. While entries such as "Crotch on fire, not heart's desire", and "Sleep, eat, pedal, shower, eat, repeat" do capture some of the essenence, I will try, and maybe not even succeed to do it in 6, or maybe 8 posts.

Sunday 7/26

While on the way to the Bon Ton Roulet, just east of Syracuse, NY we drove through a line of thunderstorms. Rain so hard you couldn't see the road. Of course we also had to stop for gas and in the run to the rest area got completely soaked. Later at the camp site however, the tent held up well against the next line of showers and we stayed dry. According to the weather report there is only a 20% chance of rain today. With tomorrow's forecast for a 60% chance of rain - looks like we're going to doing some wet camping and riding in the upcoming week.

Dinner was on our own at the Green Shutter diner. Definitely a local restaurant with a little vegetable/herb garden out back and curbside service (if you honk) out front.

Now, 499 other people and myself are settling down for the night in the field behind the Auburn High School. Can't say I've ever camped at a high school before but thats where this soon to be mobile camp is tenting tonight. Looking out over tent city there are distinct neighborhoods. Located closest to the bathrooms, staked, corner to corner is the high end neighborhood. For between $385.00 and $500, In Motion Events - Camptel services supply, set up and break down your tent every night. Mostly Eurekas. Radiating out from this upscale tent Levittown is an interesting mixture of tents randing from single person TNF bivy tents to 6 person L. L. Bean palaces. One guy, has a Kelty 4-person sun shade set up with numerous chairs. Lots of his friends, and people's he's ridden with on these types of rides before are stopping by to say hello. These supported rides seem to be the way a lot of people spend their vacations.

From this vantage point, inside a palatial L. L. Bean tent complete with blow up mattress, chairs, standing room etc. I'm guessing the upcoming week will be:

1. Wet
2. Full of lots of different people, tents and bikes.
3. Covering more than a few miles.

Adieu - for now

Well - today's the day I must say goodbye to the Tour as tomorrow I leave for the tour. It all begs the existential question - Is it better to live The Big One vicariously or do you own little tour realistically?

Obviously I vote on the side of real life. Tomorrow we leave for Auburn, NY and Sunday we Ride the Bon Ton Roulet. (Hey at least the name is still french).

Unlike most other trips there will be no blogging on this one. Hauling a laptop from campground to campground just seems a bit extreme. I'll post pictures on my return and hopefully even write up some of the day to day adventures. I am looking forward to spending time in the Finger Lakes, including a layover day in Watkins Glen, 28 years after living there. Only six hours, but another world away.

As for the Tour de France - I don't care who wins - just let it be a fair win, and a good ride. For instance check out this post of the Lanterne Rouge (French phrase meaning “red lantern” refers to the racer who is dead last when the race rolls into Paris.)

Today's Ride

This morning I clicked into the six13, and it felt like home. In only a few days I've adjusted to the gearing, the weight (or lack), the comfort of the ride, and the feel of the turns.

Oh, the turns! With this lovely, little, comfortable, quick bike, I swooped down Dean's Mill without braking once. Just sweeping along.

July 14th

Today is little Lys's 21st birthday. Technically not my adventure but certainly one I've been honored to be closely associated with.

Today is also Bastille Day, as well as Stage 10 of the Tour de France. It's been a nice race so far. It's funny I've realized that I'm not so much interested in who wins or looses, I just like the company of the commentary. Like to hear about new bike components, training things, cute towns along the route, the go-ings on in the peleton. (Did you hear that "The Cobra" is really called "Goat Boy"?)

Today is also the day I really, really, really indulged myself. Today I brough home an adorable little Carbon fibre Cannondale six13 5. Wonderful all by itself but Cannondale also upgraded the rims to the Mavic Aksium Race.

But specs are all well and good - How does it ride?

Oooh. Sooo smooth. The Carbon fibre is tight but so much smoother than the Panosonic. Don't get me wrong - she's probably going to be the quickest little bike I've ever ridden but the Cannondale is quick and smooth. She's a little lighter in the front so turning takes a great deal less effort. (I suspect looking in the direction will do it most times) And while I haven't got the lean down yet the few times I took a sharp corner she went without a wobble. Took a much nicer line.

The fit is amazing too. Over the 18 or so years I've ridden the Panosonic I have tried other bikes - (hmmm even owned a few) but this Cannondale is so close its almost perfect.

And now for the reveal. - cept the photo won't load. Maybe another time

Mt Hancock - North and South

So...July 5 I climbed another 4000fter. Still not going after all them but it is funny to realize there aren't too many left unclimbed. One thing I do keep forgetting however are batteries. It's a cute little camera but it eats batteries so really - this is the best photo from the weekend. Trust me however - the view to the South was very nice.

The Next Big Adventure

Aside from a backpacking trip to NH this weekend - this -

http://www.bontonroulet.com/

is the next adventure.

The National, Modest Mouse and R.E.M.

When I was a kid I actually wondered what kind of music the kids would be listening to when I was an adult. Would I hate and fear it the way my parent's generation hated our music? (Yup, I was seriously that strange.)

Last night the question was definitely answered. Not only do I love the "kids" music, but they have moved music into new and more expansive territory.

The headliner for the concert was R.E.M. Michael Stipe, 3 guitars and a drummer. Nice vocals, thoughtful lyrics, good beat...you've heard R.E.M. That's what it sounded like.

But it was the 2 opening bands that really made the show.

The National is a Brooklyn-based indie rock band formed in 1999, by friends from Cincinnati, Ohio. There are at least 9 people in the band playing everything from traditional guitar to violin, trumpet, trombone, and I believe a basson (certainly it was from the oboe family). The sound was rich, complex and powerful.

And speaking of powerful, with two drummers backing up some serious guitar, not to mention an electric banjo. Modest Mouse was a driving powerhouse. Seriously, and electric banjo.

If at first you don't suceed...

yea, yea, yea. Obviously who ever came up with that one hasn't tried to learn kayak rolling. I've tried a couple times now, I've even got the steps down. Funny thing - the minute, or rather second, I'm upside in the kayak I do the same, wrong thing! At least now I know what that is.

But lets go back to Friday night... I drove up to Whitinsville, Mass to the Community Center for a kayaking skills class in their pool. The class is run by Eastern Mountain Sports (a direct competitor to ACO!) The instructors, Mark and Steve were both funny and knowledgeable. There were 6 people in the class. Two guys who were very good at rolling, and 4 of "us", so after going over the basics they split the group up. The 4 of us, they took through all the steps from a wet exit to the roll. I did a very leisurely wet exit, and that alone was worth it. (These boats had tiny, tiny cockpits). Then we moved through the set up, the finish, and "all the stuff in between". I learned that a "hip snap" is more of a knee thrust and how to position the blade so it doesn't slice. Then it was time to do the full roll.

I rolled over and did exactly what I did last summer! Body memory is incredibly strong. The good news is Mark and Steve told me what I was doing...I am paddling. Yup, roll me over in a boat and I try (actually succeed) in paddling upside down in a kayak. And they say I'm not talented!

So...I will try again...and this time I'll try to bring the gosh darn paddle over the bow.

How its supposed to go:

Quonochontaug Pond

Sometimes the nicest adventures are just a state away. While many people have often mentioned how nice the salt water ponds of Rhode Island are it wasn't until today that I began exploring them.

According to the Salt Pond Coalition, "The salt ponds are a string of coastal lagoon estuaries formed after the recession of the glaciers 12,000 years ago. Piled sediment called glacial till formed the rocky ridge, or moraine, running along what is today Route 1. Irregularities along the coastline were formed by the deposit of the glaciers, which formed peninsular shaped outcroppings, which are now known as Point Judith, Matunuck, Green Hill, Charlestown Beach, Quonochontaug, Weekapaug, and Misquamicut. "

First up was Quonochontaug Pond, located in Charlestown. What a cool place! The wind was really blowing from the West so I headed in that direction battling the headwind while thinking of the great ride I'd have back. The water was very clear and much of the bottom was sand. There weren't many fish but lots of horsecrabs do some really wierd things. Then it dawned on me, were they mating? Sure enough this is what it looked like:


Anyway. There were also lots of great places to beach the kayak. Much of the shore is owned by the state, and lots of amazing houses to look at as well. Also fun was watching the powerboats trying to go out the breachway which opens to the Atlantic Ocean. The tide was pouring in and the power boats just couldn't make any headway. One even got caught in the current and pushing on to the sand.

There were a few other kayakers, one couple came from Massachusetts. They come back often and suggested I explore the Eastern end of the pond next...and I will. Ah, so many ponds, so little time.

onemillionbicycles.org

onemillionbicycles.org

Let the kayaking begin!

Funny how the right equipment makes all the difference. Last night I installed the Yakima rack, with the Yakima kayak saddles, hully rollers and extender bar. Then I loaded Eliza without a single scratch to Angela. The extender bar is a very cool. It's a bar the slides inside the rack bar, but then can slide out to create a surface onto which one rests the bow, then lefts the stern onto the rack, then moves the bow onto the rack. After that the bar slides back into the rack and away you go.


Today Gerald, Krystal and I paddled up the Thames River from the Poquetanuck Cove Boat Launch to just opposite the wedge that is the Mohegan Sun. Here Gerald and Krystal demonstrate that essential kayaking skill - the shot block pass. Shot blocks are definitely The right equipment and Gerald was a hero to bring them.

Summer in Mystic

Suddenly, summer is here. You can tell by the traffic which backed up to the house today. You can also tell, more importantly, from the weather. Yeah!!!!!

After a long bike ride and the beginning of what could become a bad habit (I rode down to the Noank Village Bakeshop and had a lovely, warm, gooey cinnamon bun), I weeded the garden, did some transplanting and general housecleaning.

Amy is well on the road to recovery. Guess I'm starting down that road too.

We're not in Iowa anymore

Indiana is really flat. Say what you will but Iowa has nice rolling hills, but Indiana, Indiana is flat. Makes for great driving, but not as scenic. We spent the night at the Holiday Inne Express in Howe. We were tempted to try a straight drive but Amy really needed the break. She's holding up well considering but I'll be glad to have her home, and to be home with her. Should be tonight.

PS We are stopping at Kings, for another visit with Frownie!

The Greatest Adventure

When it all comes down to it, I guess one of my greatest adventures has been in parenting. An adventure that is far from over but one that continues to grow, change, surprise and most of all, teach me a great deal about love. The Girls.

Sunday morning we went to breakfast at the A & M. While waiting for Peter and Amanda I took this great shot. Iconic even. Lyss doing her cool, shade thing, Amy standing ready...all in front of a cafe (diner actually).

...and now a digression, but not a complete digression on to a topic that is often discussed in this blog. Coffee, or rather regional coffee issues. Previous I mentioned Saints Rest. A great coffee shop here in Grinnell. Today we hope to pack Amy up and get a little ways down the road. How far depends on how she is feeling. Before we go however we will stop at Saints Rest for a final coffee before heading off. My love of good coffee has been passed on to The Girls. Hmmm come to think of it, how much of that really comes from them?

PS Do you believe that a year ago I was coming just returning from the most relaxing vacation I've ever had. Ah Sedona.

Graduation and then some

Amy graduated today. I was so proud. She's worked so long and hard for this. It was a beautiful ceremony after a very long 24 hours. You see, the night previous Amy had emergence surgery. I won't go into the details, lets just say we spent the night in the hospital and she was lucky to make the ceremony and really, it was only her persistence that got her there. In the long run however, she'll be just fine, very Amy.

Grinnell, Iowa

It's spring in Grinnell, and it is beautiful. You really have to love this place and these people. It you are ever looking for a nice town to settle if for a year, say to write that long overdue novel, this would be it. It's relaxed, friendly, beautiful, clean, cultured yet simple.

Yesterday we woke in Indiana. Lyss took the first shift at the wheel and drove through the Chicago outskirts which are remarkable for their billboards and electrical lines. After an hour we were rolling through the flat farmland of Indiana and within an few hours crossed The Mighty Mississippi into Iowa. The soft rolling hills of Iowa are just now covered in spring spring and everything is blooming. Lilacs are everywhere! I was afraid I'd miss their bloom back home but their bloom in Iowa is just a wonderful. I love their scent.

We met Amy, picked up coffee's at Saints Rest Coffee House, then chatted while at the park. Town is full of student parent groups in a reverse of four years ago when we dropped them off. Yup. Four years.

Then it was off to the President's reception, then dinner with Peter and Amanda, and then honestly...I went to sleep and slept for 9 long, lovely hours. Today's schedule is a bit more relaxed but it is time to get going.

A Brownie with Attitude

After a long day of driving that began at the usual I-hate-driving-through-New-York-traffic-so-leave-at-4am departure Lyss and I have arrived in Portage, IN. Five hours from Grinnell.

It was a good trip. We were pleasantly surprised at our first stop. A person in Pennsylvania talked to us. It always takes me by surprise the first time I'm out of CT and someone just starts a conversation, then I remember, 'oh yeah' people are generally pleasant, and they chat.

Our second stop in Pennsylvania was on the Ohio border when we went to Kings Restaurant for breakfast and were surprised by the Angry Brownie, Frownie. Funny to have angry food as your mascot, but actually very effective. It was hard to resist the angry stuffed toy, the angry t-shirt and the angry mob sundae may yet have my name on it. Here's a little story on the brownie situation:

Driving through Ohio I listened to "A Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy" and then in Indiana we channel surfed spending a little time enjoying Christian Rock, Japanese Rock, Latin Salsa, and NPR.

Now I've got to go find a salad.