Zen Pagan Day

I woke up this morning feeling a bit mello. This being my last day I wanted to savor it and decided that the best way to do that was to take the 40 miles back to Zion at a leisurely pace, stopping for breakfast, take in the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park, and then leisurely hike up along the Virgin River just until I found a quiet spot to relax and maybe read. I wasn't sure there was an easily accessible quiet spot on the Virgin River given the noticeable daily rise in tourism, but it would have to do.

Breakfast at "Grandmother Tina's" was excellent and I warmed up to Kanab while eavesdropping, and being included in on, on the conversation at Steve's table. These were obviously a group of locals who met there every morning. They were friendly, kind, retired but active people who enjoyed everything the area had to offer. Yesterday Steve hiked down into Snake Canyon.

After breakfast I headed Northwest stopping for a stroll along the dunes at the State Park. Even the sand here deserves mention. It's so fine its more like liquid than like our heavy, ponderous-by-comparison-granite sand. And the further you dig down with your toes the cooler it gets. What really struck me was how wonderful a place this would be to do some yoga, especially at sunset. Any takers?

Then it was off to Zion. The drive was bittersweet, so beautiful but also the last time I'd see all this beauty for awhile. After passing through the Zion tunnel, driving down two of the hair pin turns and crossing a small bridge I pulled off the side of the road to take a picture. Noticing how nice the little brook looked that went under the bridge I grabbed my backpack, locked Brutus and headed down for a closer look. One thing I've learned about this area, from reading the "Paria River" book, short experience, and listening to Steve this morning was that every river or stream leads up a canyon and every and any canyon can be wonderful. So I headed up the stream bed. Rounded a few corners, a few boulders, climbed up a few sliprock walls, and .... came to what was the exact spot I'd wanted to be. There at the head of the little canyon was a waterfall cascading into a clear pool...(that's it in the picture). I waded in the pool, enjoyed the quiet, watched the butterflies (big yellow ones), thanked the forces that had led me here, then took out my book and read.

Sandstone, Sliprock and Slot Canyons

Today's adventure started out at the Miracle Outfitters/Bookstore/Coffee shop with a smooth French Roast, a book entitled "Hiking and Exploring the Paria River," and a chat with the clerk. A young woman originally from Wyoming, Jane moved to Kanab for 2 reasons - she likes the warm weather, and there is so much to do in the area. It was she who recommended the book. She also filled me in on Latex Larry. Yesterday I neglected to describe the town of Kanab, where I'm staying. If I had to describe said town in one sentence I'd say, "Kanab is the kind of small town located on a busy highway that has to park a police car with dummy at the beginning of town just to get travelers to slow down." And that Police Cruiser is parked right outside my hotel door, and it's occupant - according to Jane is named Latex Larry.

It was the book however that pointed me in the direction of Buckskin Gulch. After driving 40 miles to the BLM office I obtained the official map with directions and proceeded to the Wirepass Trailhead. The next 4 hours were spent exploring part of the longest slot canyon in Utah "and all the world". To reach the canyon I hiked along a wash through sliprock country, areas were the sandstone had been twisted and turned into amazing shapes and textures revealing banding patterns that are beautiful. Then while temperatures rose into the upper 70's I slipped into the slot canyons. Sometimes the canyon must have been over 100ft deep, 3 ft wide and 20 degrees cooler than outside.

After that I headed back to Kanab, which also happens to have one of the best Mexican Restaurants I've ever had the pleasure to dine at. Then it was back to the Bob Bon Inn for some R & R, and a chance to finish reading "Hiking and Exploring the Paria River," which is also full of local history.

Swiftly flow the days

Like most days so far a lot has happened between sunrise and sunset.

Sunrise was observed at Bryce Canyon amoungst an international group of fellow sun worshippers. When I reached the point at 7:14 there was already a couple there from Italy. We were soon joined by a Japanese couple a group of Germans and I believe two Frenchmen. How amazing is it to know that people come from all the world to see this country. We were all equally impressed with what we saw. I've uploaded a series of photos to the album.

After sunrise I headed East toward Escalante and the Grand Staircase National Monument. The next time someone challenges you to name something good Bill Clinton did you may now, irregardless of your political affiliation, grandly state that he set aside this vast, varied and unique tract of land in Southern Utah for the enjoyment of future generations. The 60 mile drive to today's hiking destination climbed to an elevation of 8000ft and traversed Ponderosa Pine forest, desolate desert, amazing sliprock and red canyon country.

After turning several bends along rt 12 and exclaiming, "Oh my god" after each one I reached the trailhead for Lower Calf Creek Falls. As the guidebooks says "this trail follows the year round creek through a spectacular canyon to a 126ft waterfall." During the 6 mile hike I also saw picturographs, and trout and got a small taste of a summer day in the desert. I think they must be extremely HOT. Most of the trail was sand and I walked most of it in barefeet. In the morning the sand felt cool by afternoon I about burnt my feet to match the rest of my quickly sunburning body. And the Falls, as you can see for yourself, were just - well- just like a miracle.

After the hike I retraced the route West past Bryce and South past Mt Carmel arriving in tonight's town, Kanab, at 5pm. The exact time everything closed down. This being a very religious area, most of the establishments are also closed tomorrow. After some cruising up and down the strip however I did locate an Outfitter/Bookstore/Coffee shop (Another Miracle!) which is open tomorrow. Now that I had the important details taken care of I checked into the BobBon Inn, sat down on my second story balcony and watched the sunset over the red canyon walls to the West.

PS "Desert Solitaire" is a classic.

Reading the Rocks

At 1:30 I sat down in the shade of a magnificent Ponderosa Pine. Having just completed the 6 mile Queen's Garden/Peekaboo Canyon Loop of Bryce Canyon. I needed a little break. It was at just this moment that a hiker came up behind me asking for the time. When I told him he told me that at 2:00 a Park Ranger/Geologist was giving a talk at Sunset Point on the Geology of the Canyon. He'd "love to chat, but..." had to get to the talk...which was .6 miles and 1000ft above where we were. Out loud I wished him luck, under my breath I cursed his very existence.

The geology of Bryce Canyon and for that matter all of Arizona and Utah fascinates me. It is certainly unlike anything Dr. Hiscock covered in Geology 101 and although I'd read a few websites here and there the pieces just didn't make sense. Now here I was tired and hot but only .6 miles, 30 minutes and 1000ft from a real live person who was going to explain it all.

Have I mentioned I was tired? I'd woken up before sunrise in Springdale, eaten another of the Mean Bean's excellent Breakfast Burritos and driven East on RT 9 (stopping to take the obligatory photo of Checkerboard Mesa) and 89 arriving at the Canyon rim (elev. 8300) at 10:00. It's just like in the pictures, only now it was real. The colors of the hoodoos are so bright, their shapes so fantastic and without a seconds hesitation I started down, then up, then around. The hike was about 6 miles through fantastic landscapes of deserts, snowy valleys, ponderosa pine forests, hoodoos, spires, window walls, etc. All of which I took numerous pictures and now...I would have to climb up out of the Canyon at warp speed.

Did I mention that it was hot? But I did it! The Ranger's talk lasted about 45 minutes during which I finished off the water in my camelback and learned that the area all round here was at one point a giant inland lake surrounded by mountains of different chemical compositions and what unique combination of minerals allows the hoodoos to exist, or rather not erode. If you're lucky - some day I'll tell you too. I also learned why Zion is Zion, what's up, or down with the Grand Canyon and ... I'll tell you later. Needless to say the uphill sprint was worth it.

Now I'm bunking down at Ruby's Inn. (They've got a Western Theme thing going on) Turning in early. Didn't sleep all too well last night - kept having dreams of falling off cliffs and then when I did fall asleep dreamed that I jumped off them and was flying over the Canyon. Tomorrow I'm not sure what I'm doing except I know by nighttime I'll be in Kanab, Utah, about 70 miles South of here.

Observation Point

Distance: 8 miles round trip
Duration: 5 hours
Challenge: Difficult
Elevation Change: 2150 ft.
Temperature variation: 45 - 80 degrees

After uploading everything last night I got into a conversation with a German hiker who was also using the internet. He was hiking the Narrows today - so I told him all about that. He'd hiked to Observation Point, and told me all about that. I mentioned that I was thinking of attempting Angel's Landing. He showed me a picture he'd taken - of Angel's Landing looking down from Observation Point...and the rest is history.

This morning at 9:00 after an excellent breakfast burrito I pulled into the Weeping Rock parking lot and started climbing. To whomever built all those switchbacks I promise my eternal gratitude. The views were beautiful. wonderful. The climbing enjoyable.

Once again the first people I met were European. The Americans would come later. Guess the Europeans just get up earlier?

Half way up the visable mountain (you know how mountains have that habit of being much higher than the peak you can see), the trail turned a corner and entered a slot canyon. Cool.For awhile it went along a stream bed, then through a narrow section of shear Red Rock walls. Up close those walls are even more beautiful. The veining is so intricate, the colors vivid. Out of the canyon, the temperature started rising as the sun started sliding down the walls. Spring is obviously something that comes here in pockets. Every once in a while I'd see a plant flower that in other areas were still dormant. I love wildflowers and these were as sweet as any I've ever seen.

After hiking 2 miles I stopped for a rest under a Ponderosa Pine that sat off the trail. (Gerald - you're right those Honey Stinger Bars are excellent - could use a tad more chocolate - but really very good) Then started hiking another series of switchbacks. I too am thankful to the people who made these possible...but couldn't they have made them 5, maybe 6 feet wide? Maybe added an edge in some places where it went along shear 1000 ft drop? Okay. It was in this section that I had a panic attack. The fear of heights is a hard one to get over. I actually turned around. Walked down about 20 steps. Hugged the wall. Waited for my breathing to return to normal. Turned back around and never once taking my eyes from the path in front of me walked the remaining switchback section to the Ponderosa Pine Forest of the High Desert which leads to Observation Point.

The Point itself? The picture says it all.

Tomorrow I head for Bryce Canyon.

Reading the River

Well those of you who bet on my going up the River have won. What it really came down to was me knowing that as long as I didn't go it would be the main thing on my mind. So after updating the blog this morning I went to Zion Canyon Outfitters, put on a 2 pairs of neoprene booties, one pair of canyoneering boots, and some really large dry suit pants.

I then drove (in those) to the end of the Zion Scenic Drive, hiked the 1 mile paved walkway, entered the River and started off on what is unarguable one of the best hikes I've ever done. Hiking between towering canyon walls is awesome. Hiking IN a river is a new skill all together. As the water rushes down you have to figure out where the water is running deepest and fastest. Often I thought of Mark Twain and his riverboat piloting days. The water was always deepest on the outer bends of the Mississippi, and so I walked the inner curves of the Virgin River. The hiking stick, or sounding pole as I soon came to know it was invaluable. Mark five, Mark three, Mark Twain. Actually it was more like knee depth, hip depth, ankle depth.

Wall Street, the area where the canyon narrows to about 20 ft wide with no shoulders was a powerful experience. Between the force of the water and the height of the straight narrow walls it was almost overwhelming. By the time I reached the end of that section I'd been hiking about 2.5 hours and honestly, my knees were starting to shake.

Walking down stream was a whole new experience and at first I didn't like it at all. After awhile however I got the hang of it and enjoyed that too. So much I took a detour into a side canyon which had a gentle flow and some small waterfalls. It wasn't until after that and I got back to the Virgin River that I began to see other hikers. The first 9, in groups of 3, 2, 2, and 2, were all European. That was a bit disappointing. But soon the Americans started showing up. I guess most tend to sleep later? By the time I got within a mile of the paved walk the river was full of young adult types trying the River in Tevas. Their legs were the red of a well done lobster and I was glad to have the dry suit.

Tomorrow I'll attempt Angels Landing which when you think about it, is basically walking on air.

Good morning

Here I am sitting and typing away on the patio of the "Pioneer Lodge" internet cafe - and a better place to type I can not imagine.Neil Young is singing "Harvest Moon." People are walking by saying hi. I took some shots the sunrise while uploading my last post.


One thing I forgot to mention yesterday were the soft breezes. You can feel them coming down the mountains or rising up off the river. Not like the wind back home, just small locale breezes. They're starting here now.

Take Me To the River 3/13/2007

I thought I was going to Utah but it turns out I'm going to the headwaters of the Virgin River.

But first back to the plane. The ride was loooong but uneventful.("The Family Fortune" is an excellent book) After leaving Phoenix I did see Sedona and San Francisco Mountain off to the East. Then we flew over the Grand Canyon making this trip the perfect follow up to December's.

Las Vegas...hmmm...The song "Leaving Las Vegas" came to mind a number of times as I pulled out of the rental car lot and headed North as fast as I possibly could. Not much to see in Nevada. Guess the highlight would be scorching hot weather and the yellow flowers which I believed to be Santolina blooming by the side of the road. Then the road turned into Arizona and a wall loomed up before the highway and before I knew it a gap opened in the wall out of which the Virgin River Flowed. From all I'd read of Zion the highlight was hiking up the "Narrows" of Virgin River, but here was that same river. I-15 climbed into the high desert alongside the canyon and leveled out around 3000 ft. The road was pretty uneventful after that unil St. George, Utah when the Red Rock reappeared. Turning East on 9 the hills closed in, while at the same time the views up the valley began to be more breathtaking.

It took 4 hours, 1.5 longer than I'd thought, but soon I arrived at Springdale, UT. El Rio Lodge was "right there where the map said it would be" and the people just as friendly as the Lonely Planet Guide book reported. It was 4:00. Sunset wasnt' for another 4 hours. I threw my bags in the room and headed off to the Park.

First off let me say that Springdale is the cutest, but still realest town that is entirely supported by tourism that I have ever seen. Secondly, I say that the tourists that are here - and you can tell its no where near peak - are all outdoor hiker types.

So...I drove up the center park road, stopping at the Zion Lodge parking lot so I could hike the Emerald Pools Loop. I loved it!!! Pictures are here and also available on my Picassa web album. I'll try and add captions to the photos so they make sense. They are all so beautiful and the pools were just lovely. I, of course, had to wade in them.

And it was while I was wading in them that it occured to me...even though its not supposed to be possible this time of year...perhaps with the weather being as unseasonable warm as it is (tomorrow is supposed to be in the 80's) I could actually hike "The Narrows" - a 10 mile hike up the stream bed of the Virgin River. Back in Springdale I checked with an outfitter and they said that people are indeed hiking the Narrows. They rent water shoes and dry suits (the water temperature is 40 - and 3 hours is too long to spend wet in 40 degree water). I'm going to sleep on it. The down side is I can't take the camera, and it will take all day. The upside is I Get To Walk The Narrows!

Lessons Learned

Over the past few years I've learned a few things. A few of them have to do with preparing for trips.

And so it was with those lessons in mind that I went to Borders yesterday. Having good (paperback) books while going on vacation is vital to the success of the trip. You really can not rely upon the airport bookstores to have that right volume. Once I had nothing other than some hideously boring book that I can't even remember for an entire flight to Amsterdam (Other lesson - Do Not count on there being bookstores in Iceland). But back to Borders and the all important book selection. First off, all books can not be of the same genre. One should be light, almost frivolous. For this category I upgraded from the usual 'chick lit' to "The Family Fortune", a modern retelling of Jane Austen's "Persuasion," a slightly sophisticated version of the genre.

Also on the light side, but also on the uplifting, vacation-as-vision-quest vein, I selected "The Tao of Pooh". One of those books I've been meaning to read for years.

On a slightly more serious note and in keeping with my interest in reading fiction or non-fiction relating to the area I'm visiting is "Medicine Woman," by Lynn Andrews and Edward Abbey's "Desert Solitare". Don't think I'll make it Arches National Park, but I'll be close.

And of course there is the travel guide. This time I went with the lonely planet's "Zion & Bryce Canyon National Parks."

Final important lessons relating to books - do not take hardcovers for the simple fact they weigh a lot. Don't take library books. If they turn out to be awful, or you need more room in your bag, you can't leave them.

And to think, I'm only 45. What deeper wisdom awaits?

Utah, 2007 Itinerary

March 13 - Go
March 13 - 15 El Rio Lodge

• Zion National Park

March 16 -

• Bryce Canyon National Park

March 17-18 - Bon Bon Inn - Kanab, UT

• Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park
• Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument

March 19 -
March 20 - Return

Utah - March - Be There!

Driving Directions to Zion

Zion to Bryce

Almost two weeks later

Sitting here in Mystic I keep thinking back to the Grand Canyon.

Still Grand! I'm still going back.

Late April?

Summary

I noticed this week that I was much more relaxed when hiking back then hiking out on a trail. That while I enjoyed the hike out it was more a walk of discovery, while the walk back lent its self more to inner reflection. I think today feels much like the hiking back part.

At sunrise I walked out to Courthouse Butte. Very cool. The dirt too.

And I realized I need to figure out what I want to do, then where it would be best to do it. I love being outdoors. Looking around here and all the places I've been who wouldn't? And yet still there is a need to do and to produce that is part of the place but also more. I don't want my job and life to be separate, and I want to live as much in the outdoors as possible.

This morning as I was walking around the Butte, my Aslo's kicking up the red dust, and my leg still hurting a bit from yesterday I saw a footprint in the dirt. Not a dog, or a deer, or a horse, or a reebok, or TNF but a human footprint. I took off my boots and enjoyed the rest of the walk in my bare feet.

Sedona

Sunrise on the Airport Mesa, Sunset at the Spinx - and I am exhausted. Oh and Heavos Ranchero's for Breakfast!

Hiked into Boynton Canyon and it was a great hike. The weather and micro climates here are amazingly varied, as are the trails. I tried to get a few "trail" shots mostly because the ones here as so different from other's I've been on. This one pretty much caputures it. At this point I was in shorts and wishing I was not in a thermal techwich top and had carried more than one bottle of water. It was hot!

Things were much different at the end of the canyon. At one point the trail turns south. I rounded a corner by an alligator pine (very aptly named) and I swear the temperature dropped 15 degrees. So by the end of the trail, when I was eating an excellent humus wrap and basking in the energy of the canyon, I was thankful for the thermal and also wearing a microfleece. The hike out was good. These rocks are amazing.

Next I hiked a bit of the Soldier's Pass trail to the Seven Pools. Then back tracked and sat one of of the red rock aprons beneath "The Spinx."

Not only is the geography here amazing, but so too the plants. It's like the entire place is landscaped. Evereything in its place and perfect. This tree at the Seven Pools is just one example.


By the end of today I was exhausted and I'll confess, a bit lame. So after a margaretta and an excellent artichoke and pesto pizza I crashed at the hotel. It took awhile before I wanted to turn on the TV and then I turned it off. It's been nice without it.

Comfortable

Today I got to see many new and amazing sides of Arizona.
First was a visit to Sunset Volcano. You can't actually go into the crater, but there is a trail up a cinder pile and through a lava field. Sunset mountain blew its top only 1000 years ago. What is even more impressive to realize geology-wise is that this whole area is full of volcanos. They speculate that the whole San Francisco range was one giant volcano at one time.

But back to Sunset Mountain. Apparently when it blew or coincidental with it blowing two types of native American settlements were formed. One of peublo houses to the North and another, or cliff houses to the south. I visited both, and gosh was a place of endless resources and variation. On the one hand it's flat, but its not, there are these giant mountains and then these deep canyons. And yet through it all, the place is vast and open and yet one feels comfortable. The forest here, and there are some huge Ponderosa Pine and Douglas Firs throughout are amazing, but still they're open.

Oh and one other thing. This whole fear of heights thing. I don't seem to have it here. Nor do these cute guys. We got aquainted on the rim of Walnut Canyon.

Soul Retrieval

First off, let me say historic Flagstaff is a cool town. Cool people, cool restaurants, cool shops, and again – those cool Arizona people. This is a shot of Flagstaff from right outside the hostel. We’re looking North, across the railroad and RT 66. And it was that very route that I took North to 89 to 64 to the Grand Canyon.

I debated on putting this out there in public – but I can think of no other way to describe my feelings about the Grand Canyon – so here goes. I have always thought of the soul as something vast and open beneath the relatively flat, calm exterior.
The Grand Canyon in 3-Dimensional model of the soul – mine at least. Standing there on Desert View Rim was one of the most moving experiences of my life. Descending into it, although only 2000 feet is again beyond words but my soul sure felt at home. Felt a few others with me as well.











This is a shot taken from where I ate a snickers bar, tanned, and turned around.





This is a shot of the same place taken from the main overlook.



Then the full moon rose.

Je suis ici

...or as they say in English. I am here!

Other than that I'm pretty speachless. Detail-wise the flight went really well, it was/is a beautiful clear day. With the recent snow among the trees and buildings in the midwest more than half the country looked like a pointalist drawing.

Phoenix is a travesty against nature, but it was warm and the people really nice.

So I headed due north up I-17 and stopped an hour later at Arcosanti. An architectural experiment on how people could co-exist with the desert and live in community. It's only in the beginning stages. I took the tour with Joanne. A local horse rancher, and Berkeley grad who just loves the place. Stopping in the bakery on the way out I met Kim who grew up in Woodbury but came to Arconsanti to cast the bells. (I'll fill this in later or you can check out their website) Again very cool people.

Back on I-17 and over the ridge(?) into the Verde Valley. Oh my god! and then I saw the rocks to the North West. So...took the road to Sedona. Airport Mesa. Oak Creek Canyon. Again Speachless. (And that's saying a lot for me).



Now however, it's time to eat!

The Adventure Continues

...next stop Arizona.

• Day 3 - Arrive in Flagstaff
• Arcosanti
  
• Aqua Fria National Monument
  
• Day 4 - Grand Canyon
• Orpheum Theater - Calexico with Annuals
• Day 5 - Wupatki National Monument
• Day 6 - Sedona.
• Soldier Pass/Brin's Mesa Trail
• Vortexes
• Boynton Canyon
• Bear Mountain
• West Fork of Oak Creek
  
• Day 7 - Sedona and Home

Sayings

Just going to collect a few of my favorites:

• Ain't what you do, it 's the way that you do it.
• Follow your bliss
• Don't put off to tomorrow what you can do today because if you like it, you can do it again tomorrow.
• "Simplify, simplify, simplify" Henry David Thoreau
• "One 'simplify' would have sufficed" Ralph Waldo Emerson
• The path is the goal
• The thief who stole my life, has taken too my faith
• I sing the body electric
• "Between two evils, I always choose the one I haven't tried before." Mae West
• Be not afraid of death, be afraid of the half-lived life
  

You never know ( or the path is the goal)

...so after weeks of trying to decide where in NH I'm going to hike this weekend, I'm driving through Springfield when deep in my gut I know I'm going to Vermont; to the trailhead on rt 103. Its time to pick up the path, and continue on from where I left off.

11:30 and here's Angela at the trailhead. Clarendon Gorge to the south, my first 4000fter to the the North. I feel great, really good. It's time to move on, to be continuing on the path I set out on many years ago. Guess, unconsciously that I've been avoiding this section because - well, its hard to backpack up a mountain.









The Trail immediately heads up. On the way are some of these trillums in seed. I walked the previous section in spring when they were blooming, and I'd never seen so many in one spot. Now its amazing to see their brilliant red seed pods.





About 1000 ft up there is an overlook to the South. Cool to think I've hiked through those hills.
After a little drink and a snack, it's time to move on. While I'm happy my gut decided on this route, I'm a bit concerned about having to hike 12 miles, up a mountain, with a 26 lb pack - but gosh it is beautiful and there is always trail magic! I'd been hiking about 2 hours through amazing woods - huge pines trees and beeches, across little brooks and a few abandoned farm fields when I came upon an exceptionally nice stream - in which - very strangely - were 10 cans of soda. The sign on the other side of the stream however, explained it all.

Gosh! I love the Trail - and the people on and around it.

And of course aside from that there is just the miles of unending simple beauty...which my feet and hips are begining not to appreciate. Its 4:00 and I'm not even to the base of Killington. I'm starting to question my gut feeling to do this route. I'm wondering how I'm going to make it all the way back down, and I'm not even up, but right now I'm at a bridge crossing the Cold River and its time for a break. And then I remember - bus. Someone once mentioned that there are buses that run along rt 4, and according to my map, rt 4 is on the other side of Killington. The map also says its 7 miles from the rt4 trail head to Rutland, and 5 miles from Rutland to the rt 103 trailhead. So if my legs give out I don't have to go back over the mountain. Cool. This is, once again, doable. Sometime you have to go with your gut and trust that things will work out for the best.


At 6:30 I arrive at Cooper's Lodge. The days destination. Talking to a local there I confirm the bus option, stash my pack and head up the .2 mile scramble to the summit.

Need I say more?

Amended saying

You know how I always say - "Try everything atleast once because if you like it enough you can do it again tomorrow".

Well, I have to change that to "Try everything atleast once every five years because you might find you like it now, and if you like it enough you can do it again"

---I went kayaking Thursday (in a Thunderstorm!) and even if there hadn't been a storm and some really great company - I really liked it. Went again Saturday and will definetly go again.

Hence the new saying.

Guess What?

I just realized---I could easily just go back to Holland next year.

Why do BRAN or BRAT - I'd rather go to Holland.

The cost would be the same
I know the area - less stress
I've got most of the maps
Cheese!!!!!

Annual Aug 14 Hike

I've been section hiking the AT from New York northward on and off for the last few years and have made it to Clarendon Gorge/rt 103 in Vermont. The next long weekend section would take me from rt 103 to the Connecticut River. Looking over the maps, following various discussion and looking at shelter pictures makes me wonder if this is would be a nice hike - or if I'm just obsessing about doing the trail section by section when I could take the 4 days and skip ahead to NH, or (don't say it) do a hike that's not on the AT at all.

i.e is the next NH section just so much better that I should just jump ahead?

Hoping

Landis denies cheating

I am

My daughters tease me that I have become a groupie. Well... this article clinches it:

Another Landis Story

(But only for Floyd)

So then I have this decision to make. There is a rumor that he will be in a parade in Lancaster. Do I go? Could I be that much of a groupie?

Plans

Off to a meeting in Worcester today, then EMS tonight.

What I would like to do soon however is plan the next year and then make an even longer term plan. I know one goal is to establish a sustainable, healthy, awesome body life-style. I really like being fit.

Gotta run

We love Floyd!

Today Floyd Landis won the Tour de France. An excellent example of the saying, "it ain't what you do its the way that you do it". His fortitude in Stage 17 will serve forever as a symbol of how never to say never, that when things look impossible one can still act with great determination and spirit. Doesn't matter if one wins or not, what matters is the spirit.

On the other hand, can't say many American's know of this momentus event. I made and wore a "We love Floyd" t-shirt to EMS and not a single person made a comment.

tsk, tsk.

Had a good ride after work. I'm thinking about doing BRAN and BRAT in 2007, but I'd like to have a friend to ride and train with. Any volunteers?

Turkey Day

So yes, I for know I didn't keep the blog during the trip and I've failed to upload the photos since. But... I have continued riding my bike.

Had to get up and out on the ride early what with the forecast for thunderstorms - and Floyd leaving the start gate at 10:15. Took one of my favorite routes East on Rt 1, North on Anguila Rd., West on 184, South on that really cool ride with the great hill.

One of the things I like to do on a ride is look to the side. It feels just like it looks like when they show the races on tv. Today, every time I looked there was a turkey family. There were about 5 in all. Some very large, having 6 or more chicks.

So now I'm watching Floyd. Whatever happens...stage 17 was amazing. We should all be like Floyd.

Luxembourg

We made it after a very interesting train/bus/train ride.

Sorry I,ve been a slackqrd on the blog; its just turned out to be expensive to get internet access, and then frustrating to type!

This morning Amy and I rode down along a cute river; not sure what our future plans are asie from the fact that we will now be staying in Paris on Saturday night - just to be sure we make it on time.

Update

As Amy said; the Belgians - and we suspect the french - have a different keyboard:i.e.
Qs Q,y sqid the Belgiqns - qnd ze suspect the french - hqve q different keyboqrd:

This makes typiung a bit slow:

As Amy also mentioned we qre in Namur: Just got train tickets that will take us to Luxe,bourg tommorow, where we plan on spending a few days.

As to the events of the last few days - there are stories to tell; things about the 2006 shimano 105 rear delairer; unexpected trips to large cities; sleeping at an airport; me (waking with a migrane) - and then there is the fact that Jerry needs to update his book:

But we are well now, climbed the Citadel and I am resting: Miss you all!

Kelly

Kelly Time

Kelly Time

We're in Namor. It's been a rough couple days. This keyboard is French and obnoxious.

Amy

Leaving Gent

Amy and I are just about to set out from Gent for Tervuian (near Brussels).
Yesterday we left Brugse and about 43 km, my first fall with my foot still in the clip, a real hill! a few cute towns, and lots of farms later arrived in Gent. Another nice hostel.

Gent is cool, but Amy and suspect we shouldn't have done two similar towns in consequtive days. Gent is like a bigger, older and more complex Brugse (hope the Belgians don't take offense at this offhand summation of their cities). Spent an hour in the post office and will not be mailing any more packages. It cost 20 eruos for one small package.

Also went to the Museum of Belgian Folklife and Culture. A Curiousity Type Museum with some strange ideas about farming and babies. Is there any other incident of a culture explaining babies as growing on farms, i.e. hatching from eggs and growing in plants?

Well, time for breakfast. We'll probably be out of internet access range for the next few days. But we'll be thinking of you.

Kelly

Brugge

Good morning,

Since it is still fresh in my head, I'm going to jump ahead to yesterday's adventures in Brugge.
After the hostel breaksfast, tiny relativly week (American-like) koffee. Amy and I headed out to do laundry! 1 stupe cost 2.50 euro. Of course it took awhile to figure what a stupe was and how we could get one but dealing with the language barrier has become well - not second nature - but doable.

After the laundery we lathered up with sun scree. (have I mentioned the weather?). Until today every day has started cloudy, sometimes with rain, and gotten windy, gotten sunny, gotten windier and goten cloudy again by sunset (22
;00) Today was completely sunny and needless to say we don't need anymore tan (i.e. sunburn)

Bruge is beautiful. To orient ourselves we taook a boat tour through the canals. Then Amy and I split up to do some shopping and wandering on our own. I headed for the bookstalen to locate the next fietsrout fart. This has become an impiortant part of the nisiting town routine. The detailed fieltmmpas only get us between 40 and 60 km. So far we've ridder through 5,. In addition, they're not all the same format so it takes a while t o tranltate and locate the correct next one. I found a reallly good one the Brussels area but not one of the area between here and Ghent - which is our next stop. I'm pretty sure that I can turst Jerry's directions however (you remember Jerry, I mentioned Jerry yesterday) and then in Ghent I'll try again for another fietroute map between there and Brussels.

After the bookstalen I wandered around the markts having koffee, paying to use the toilet, sampling chocolates, trying a Belgian waffle with cream, and touring the churches and convents.

PS Pinkerstag may be Pentecost but needless to say the Belgians, Dutch and French all celebrate it not by going to church but by bike riding, joggin, walking or going to Brugge. The place was busy. And that reminds me of an important cutlureal shift that occured here. In Holland they spoke Dutch and if you asked, and were in a major city, English. Here they speak Dtuch, Flemish, French and English. There are signs we can read!!!! It's nice to understand 1/4 of what is going on without having to plead ignorance first. The multi-lingual situation is also helping me brush up on my French - hopefully when I need it, I'll be passable.

Then Amy and I went back to the hostel, got ready fot settle in and enjoy a bottle fo Brugges own "brugse zot" a light beer, brewed here in Bruge. The brewery is in a cute building and has been working since 1856. This beer was brewed this year and won some awards. The label is in 4 languages - and the beer is really good.

A votre sauna, to your health!

PS The beer stein situation is looking up. There are some here - even one that was passable but we're holding out for something less touristie

PPS I miss the Dutch pastries! Really badly.

June 2

This day ended up as Oudewater to the Bar.

I'm running out of internet time so will just rough in the day and fill it up later when we're home and have photos. (We have lots of great photos)

Ride from Oudwater to Gouda was beautiful. The houses and gardens were old, pristine and incredible.

Gouda was just waking up. We had koffee in a nice cafe where the gentlemen kindly helped us with the different breakfast options.

Bought an awesome Hazelnut torte thing fand chesse for snack.

Met a couple from South Carolina

Saw the cheese weighing building and the stad huis.

Decided for the first time that we really liked Jerry,

Rode to a small ferry. Had koffee on the beach. Rode to kinderjink saw lots of windmills (18). rode through and industrial area (think we missed one of Jerry's turns). Rode through a large tunnel. Rode over a 4 km bridge (have to love that North Sea headwind). Found a minicamping that was next to a bar. Set up tent in a field. Dutch kids played football until 10:30. Spoke to a nice man who thought I really should know what Pinderdag was, but though the idea of the bike trip was really interesting. While the Dutch always ride bikes, I do not think they go too far. Also they often take us for Dutch and will have long conversations with us before finding out we don't speak the language. Then, of course they assume we are English.

June 2 - Gouda to Willemstad 84 km

• Begin at the N207, the road that urns along the southern border of Gouda (and the one that you cycled in on)
• Head South on the N207 toward Stolwijk and Bergambacht.
• Through Stolwijk turn LEFT toward Bergambacht, and 100 meters ahead, turn RIGHT toward Bergambacht. [area map]
  
• 10.4: Bergambach (market and bakery). From Bergambacht, follow white and red bike signs to the Goot Ammers and Streefkerk at a roundabout.
• At the end of the street, turn RIGHT and then a quick LEFT to reach the ferry.
• Turn RIGHT as you exit the ferry
• 17.0: Streefkerk. Follow signs to Kenderdijk
• 26.0: Turn LEFT for Kinderdijk and a long row of windmills(19 in fact). There is a tourist restaurant on your right.
• To leave Kinderdijk, follow the bike path toward Dordrecht 16km. You'll be cycling along bike paths that run parallel with the A15/E31 adn the N3
• 31.0: Ablasserdam. As you head to Dordrecht, follow signs LEFT for Dordrecht via Brugge 6km. (not via Dordrecht via the Veer 2km)
• There will be a hotel on your right as you make the turn.
• Keep following signs to Dordrecht. Past the hotel, turn right toward Dordrecht and cross a bridge.
• After the bridge, turn RIGHT to Breda.
• After you turn right, take a LEFT 100 meters ahead. Over another bridge
• Follow the N3 to Gravendeel, 10. Exit onto the N217 to 's Gravendeel.
• You'll pass under a tunnel.
• As you exit the tunnel, floow the N217 to Mookhoek 3, Dordrecht, and Breda on the N217
• Follow signs to Mookhoek and Strijen.
• From Mookhoek, follow signs to Strijen and Numansdorp.
• 60.0: Strijen (markets, restaurants), turn RIGHT to Numansdorp and Rotterdam
• 71.0: Numansdorp. As you leave the town, you;ll pass a golf course. Follow the blue sign LEFT to Willemstad 7
• Continue following signs to Willemstad. As you cross a large bridge, continue following signs to Willemstad, STRAIGHT ahead, 6 km.
• 84.0: Willemstad

Camping Bovensluis in Willemstad

June 1

The real story...

Stage 1

Don't know that this is an exciting day, it was more like a day for learning how to navigate and forage in a foreign country.

We left the hostel around 9, heading south along the N208 and soon passed Haarlem and into some suburb or other. The houses were nice, some very big estates, and the trees along the fietspad were huge. Somehow I went west instead of east. The orginial plan had been to not follow Jerry's route exactly as we were starting a bit North and East of Amsterdam but to met up with his route around Oudewater (I mean who doesn't want to see where they weighed witches?).

Oh - Jerry. At this point I should introduce Jerry who has become a close friend of ours. He is the man who wrote the book from which many of the route directions came. We are now very close and sometimes we are very fond of him, sometimes a bit disappointed.

But at this point in the ride, we've yet to really rely on Jerry. Trying to get back on course, we really begin to trust the little red and white fietsroute signs. The idea however is not to take a route, but to pick the next town you are going to. The signs only point to towns and also give you kms to the town.

So around noon, after riding through some nice industrial land (and for industrial land it was nice) we stop and have a snack which thankfully we'd brought. An hour later we realize that we will need to carry more food because its not for another hour that we come across a markt. Neither Amy nor I do well on really empty, tired stomachs. But we manage to find some good bread and cheese (its hard not to find good bread and cheese here), and ride on . The countryside has become more agricultural. Very agricultural in fact, we're riding through what were, only 3 weeks ago fileds and fields of tulips. We've seen a few windmills, although right now I can't recall our first.

And then we arrive at Oudewater around 4. It is a cute Dutch town. Really cute. brick streets, brick houses, little cafes. The lady at the VVV directs us to a nearby Kamping. By now we're pretty tired having riden about 70 km and although it is next to a highway and in the middle of the field we settle in. Very happy with our first day.

I figured out the maps and it looks like we are out into the country now!

Kelly

June 1 - Amsterdam to Gouda 71 km (44m)

• Ride begins at the Vondelpark (which we'll have to add to the milage), at the western end of the P.C. Hoffstraat
• Follow P.C.Hoofstraat to Stadhouderskade and turn RIGHT.
• Follow Stadhouderskade until you get to the Amster River, and turn RIGHT down this street.
• Amsteldjik (also called S110)
• When you pass Martin Luther King Park, the S110 is called president Kennedylaan. You'll see signs for the A2
• Follow bike path to Utecht. Follow it toward Hilversum and Utrecht along the A2 bike path
• Exit the A2 heading toward Utrecht and Abcoude, following the bicycle signs. Follow the path through Abcoude, Bambrugge.
• 19.5: N201. Follow signs to Loenen. You'll follow a pleasant raod along a canal.
• As you hed into Loenen, there's a gas station on your right.
• At the first bend, follow green and white bike signs toward Breuekelen and Maarse. This will lead you alonside a canal and beautiful Dutch houses.
• Head next toward Maarsen
• 32.0 As you approach Maarsen, follow sings to Maarsenbroek.
• Next follow sings for Vleuten and De Meern.
• Continue following signs to De Meern
• 43.0 De Meern
• Follow signs to Oudewater 17 adn Montfoort 9
• continue on the road to Montfoort and Oudewater.
• Oudewater was founded in the 10th century. It was internationally known because of its "Heksenwaag", Witches weighinghouse. Emperor Charles V granted Oudewater the privilege to weigh women, who were prosecuted for witchcraft, in the Netherlands and abroad, and to give them a "Certificaet van Weginghe", confirming that they had been weighed in Oudewater and were not too light, and thus were no witches.
• Follow this path all the way to Gouda.
• As you approach Gouda and the N207, you'll come to a large roundabout.
• Turn RIGHT and head toward Gouda.
• At the intersection ahead, turn LEFT to Centrum, Alphen and Rijnm, Rotterdam, and Den Haag.
• Follow signs to the VVV and Centrum.

Gouda

June 3

Bar to Veere ( Past Kamperland)


Crossed smallish bridge. Watched the sailboats get locked out with a Dutch couple who were also bike touring. Saw a giant clam and clamboats in Briensknee. Amy met a friend while I was in the bakker getting koffee. He suggested and alternate route which we took along the bayshore as opposed to along the highway.

Crossed a Killer Bridge 12 km over cold and windy water. Had lunch in the daisies on the other side. Colinsplatt - saw a working windmill. Rode to the VVV in Kamperland and learned there was a ferry to Vere that left in 20 minutes. Pedaled for the Ferry. Rode over to Verre where we realized - these Dutch towns just keep getting more and more amazing. This one was really amazing! But we (especially Amy) were tired so we rode up the coast to look for a minicamping. Got turned away at the first but the second was better. It was at a farm. The tents set up around a field in the middle of which Dutch kids and parents played football until 22:00 (I think you may sense a trend here).



Willemstad to Kamperland 68 km (42m - headwind warning)

• From the center of town, follow signs toward Zieriksee 37 km and Rotterdam.
• A half-kilometer later, follow signs to Zieriksee and Rotterdam, your first left.
• Just past that sign you'll see a bike path sign for Zieriksee. Follow it to the Right
• As you cross the bridge, keep following signs to Zieriksee. The terrain is flat and you're parallel with the N59.
• You'll follow signs for Den Bommel, Middelhamis, and Zieriksee 32km
• You'll cross another bridge as you pass through Grevelingendam; continue following signs for Zieriksee and Vlissingen.
• As you approach Zierikzee, turn left for Vlissingen
• Vlissingen is 49 kilometers away as you leave Zierikzee. You'll cross the Zeeland brugge as you turn right for the N256 and Vlissingen
• Once over the bridge, continue straight. Ride for 2 km and turn Right on the N255 toward Kamperland and Kortgene. As you make the right, Kamperland is 11 km away.
• Continue following signs to Kamperland. You reach the town center at 68 km.
• [Camping]

Thanks for all the comments

Its so good to hear from everyone at home!

Happy Piderdag Everyone

Did you know there is an important Catholic holiday we do not celebrate? Nien? But they sure do here.

Anyway, we have arrived in Brugge. Oh wow! The trip has been great. Sorry for the lack of posts. The Nederlands may be beautiful but they are woefully lacking in internet access. On the plus side I'm just not sure where to start. We have stuck pretty much to the itineary listed on the blog with a few side trips and a few shortcuts. You wouldn't believe how cool, beautiful, old, orderly, neat, all the towns and cities are. The Gouda and bread are excellent too. Not to mention the pastries and the koffee. (which is more like espresso and served in small cups) And the biking! It is fantastic. The original problem wasn't finding the bike routes, but figuring out which one we were supposed to take. We got that figured now. I have learned how to ride a bike, read a map and follow directions all while trying to keep my feet out of the clips in the pedals.

And speaking of maritime. This place is full of boats. I knew there was water but all the boats - and windsurfers too.

All the equipment has held out well. Bodies too. But have certainly learned a few things to do differently next time.

Well, we are limited here on access and someone is waiting so I'll say so long for now. All is well. We will be here in Brugge until Tuesday so I"m sure I'll get to write again this time.