June 21, S.D. and I arrived in Tok with two and one half weeks to spare before we started our volunteer gig at Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge. After spending two days checking out Deadman Lake, the campground where we're now hosting, Dave took a two day chainsaw certifcation coures and I went rafting down the Tanana River.
That left two weeks, and all of Alaska to explore.
Alaska is big, really big. It was only after pondering a loop drive of over 861 miles along most of the major state roads and then realizing that those roads only provided access to the relavitely small southeast corner, that we got an idea of just how big. No matter how much time you have, a car isn't going to get you everywhere.
On the other hand, where it will get you is still pretty awesome. People ask how would you describe Alaska and I'd say, it's the kind of place where you can point out a nesting pair of bald eagles to a local and they'll show you four more. A place where massive mountains, glaciers, meadows, rivers, moose, eagles, bears, salmon, and frost heaves are common, everyday occurances. A place where wilderness and weather still run the show and people are just a very small part of the whole.
The Circle Tour itself progressed as follows:
Drove south to the Wrangall St Elias National Park and Preserve.
--Huge mountains, glaciers, snow fields, moose
Continued south to Valdez.
--Took a tour boat, the Lu Lu Belle, out into Prince William Sound. Spent 9 hours looking at Humpback whales, dolphins, seals, sea lions, eagles, and a hugh glacier - that calved less that 1/4 mile from the boat. We also saw a black bear climbing out of a dumpster and began to get the idea of just how casual Alaskians are about bears, and bears are about Alaskans. The bear was in a dumpster at the shooting range!
Then west to Palmer/Anchorage
-- Spent a night feeding mosquitos outside the small town of Glennallen before heading Anchorage. Aside from an abundance of stores selling furs and ulu's (curved, native american knives) the big city was unsettling similar to other U.S.cities. We stocked up on groceries, beer and wine and headed back out as soon as we could.
North to Denali National Park
- The road between Anchorage and Denali is probably the best road in Alaska. Still mostly two lanes, it's relatively frost heave and pot hole free! We spent three rainy days in Denali and never did get to see the mountain. Still it was very beautiful and we got up close and personal with a moose. Also took a Ranger-led discovery hike off into the tundra. 7 hours of wading through bogs and streams out into the wilderness.
Further North to Nenana
- Spent the 4th of July in a very small town and joined in the local celebration. They closed down mainstreet, a whole blocklong, and everyone watched as the kids, then adults participated in three-legged, potato and tricycle races, along with a 'shoe scramble' and other competitions. "One dollar for the winner, fifty cents for second place, everyone gets a quarter." And everyone else enjoys the day immensely.
Still further North to Fairbanks
- Fairbanks is pretty cool. There is LARS, the large animal research center where they raise and study caribou and musk ox. The two month, and two year old musk ox are adorable, and weighing only 200 and 500 pounds respectively, the largest cute mammals in North America. (That's on the official Kelly Cuteness Hyperbole Scale)
East again, through North Pole, Delta Junction and back to Tok
- Stopped at Santa's Workshop and 1960's-style tourist trap. Took a photo, left. At Delta Junction we toured the Alaskan grain belt. The area raises barley and most of Alaska's feed. It also is home to two Buffalo herds and a Yak ranch. Naturally the dinner there serves Buffalo burgers...and they were awesome.
Back through Tok and onto to Deadman Lake
- Tonight we'll be cooking up the Yak steak we purchased in Delta Juction.
The Circle Tour complete, it's good to be 'home' for a few months.
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