See Traverse City by Boat

Schooner Manitou casting off

Mention Traverse City, Michigan to a native New Englander and you get a blank stare. Mention it to a Midwesterner and their eyes light up like you were talking about the land at the end of the rainbow. On the fourth day of our vacation, two New Englanders, who had only experienced Traverse City through the eyes of dreamy Midwesterners  drove into and through that mythic Midwestern town..

After driving up from Bay City through the flat Michigan forest and then along a five mile strip, the quaint two and three story houses and brick business district with wide streets, and the numerous bicyclists and parks along the lake Michigan shore did seem almost magical. Five minutes ago we were in the deep forest two minutes ago the usual, dreary, American strip and then, viola! A cute little town at the foot of a Lake Michigan bay.

Leelanau Peninsula off the bow

As cute as the town was however, we drove on through to a boat two miles up the west side of Grand Traverse Bay. Alyssa was crewing on the Manitou, a schooner that took passengers out for sails on the bay. If we could arrive before 2:00 we could join her for the afternoon tour.

I grew up on the Atlantic coast, in a town near a submarine base. Driving into town was a sign advertising a uniquely Groton experience "See Submarines by Boat!" It was always a curious tourist option in my mind, but it was the phrase that I remembered most.  Seeing Traverse City by boat, was one of those times. It was the best way to get oriented to this new area.




A little town clustered together at the foot of a bay. Gentle hills rolling up from the shores on the east and west, with the expanse of Lake Michigan visible to the north. We had a great sail across the bay and as the excellent crew maned the boat, they and the passengers told us about all the things we needed to do during our three days in town:

Old Mission State Park

1. Walk through town

Sleeping Bear Dunes Lifesaving Station

2. Drink beer. The town has 20 breweries within a five mile radius
3. Drink wine. In the last 20 years the area has developed into an expansive wine region with over 41 vineyards.

S.D.s idea of a grand hotel

4. Marvel at the number of cherry-related items produced. For over one hundred years the area has been a major cherry producer. Apparently there are as many kinds of cherries as there are things you can do with them. Pie is not the only option. There is jam, wine, brandy, grilling sauce, preserves, pit spitting sports, fruit leather and more.
5. Go to Sleeping Bear Dunes State Park (home of the scenic drive and picnic mountain)
6. Get out on the water. Go sailing kayaking,  swimming, and paddle boarding.

And believe it or not, in three days we did all of that!